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Apathy Buttress: A Wild Approach to Back To The Slammer in Yosemite

Yosemite Village, California United States
loose rock
chimney
approach climb
dirt-filled crack
multi-pitch
north yosemite
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Apathy Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Apathy Buttress serves as a raw, hands-on introduction to Yosemite’s north valley walls. Its loose flakes, dusty cracks, and chimney climbing offer an adventurous side trip or a rugged approach to the nearby Back To The Slammer."

Apathy Buttress: A Wild Approach to Back To The Slammer in Yosemite

Apathy Buttress offers more than just a warm-up—it provides a raw, hands-on climbing experience that feels closer to a rugged adventure than a conventional line. Situated on the north side of Yosemite Valley, this three-pitch route stretches approximately 250 feet of varied terrain marked by loose flakes, dusty cracks, and a chimney that demands attention. The climb begins with a tenuous pitch where flakes detach underfoot and an infilled crack requires excavation to place protection securely. From here, you navigate an uneasy chimney lined with loose chockstones, urging you to move deliberately and test every hold.

The second pitch steps into more classic climbing style. It starts with a chimney that carries a crack peeling away at the back, then shifts into a demanding lieback along an arch. This pitch is where skill and patience meet, especially as you work around big, wobbly blocks. The route has a reputation for loose rock, and the constant obvious movement forces climbers to stay mentally dialed in – a feature that turns the climb from a simple approach into a memorable excursion in its own right. Although many parties choose to end at a belay below a tree, continuing on reveals a short, loose final pitch with more typical Yosemite motifs.

Despite the rough edges and variable protection, Apathy Buttress invites climbers who don’t mind a bit of scrambling and subtle route-finding. Its location just off the beaten path promises solitude compared to Yosemite’s crowded classics, with views opening out over the valley’s granite walls and shaded forests below. Weather-wise, spring through early fall offers the most dependable conditions, avoiding wet rock and seasonal debris. The climb’s mixed terrain demands sturdy footwear with solid sticky rubber and a full standard rack to handle the range of crack sizes and occasional loose encounters.

Planning your day here means preparing for loose terrain and bringing patient persistence, along with a sense of adventure. Expect the route to challenge not only your technical skills but your ability to read the rock and move with caution. Hydration and careful timing will keep you energized, especially given the route’s scrambling sections where sudden exposure can catch the unprepared off guard. Whether you’re heading to Back To The Slammer or looking for a gritty, less polished slice of Yosemite climbing, Apathy Buttress offers insight into the park’s wilder side.

In short, this isn’t a polished sport climb or a clean crack climb, but a gritty classic approach with enough unique features to keep a sharp climber engaged. The vivid textures of loose flakes, dirty cracks, and chimney challenges combined with the wild north valley backdrop make it a distinct outing that rewards careful planning and a love of hands-on climbing adventure.

Climber Safety

Loose flakes and chockstones are common, making a helmet necessary. Some sections have unstable blocks that can swing if weighted improperly. Take caution on the chimney pitches and avoid increased risk during or after wet weather when the rock condition worsens.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid afternoon warming, which can loosen rock further.

Carry a sturdy rack with cams ranging from small to medium sizes.

Wear sticky-soled shoes but prepare for scrambly, sometimes loose terrain.

Be patient with route-finding, especially around chimney sections with poor flow.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Apathy Buttress feels straightforward technically, but the uneven rock quality and loose blocks bump the overall effort. The route isn’t polished, so it demands steady gear placements and mental focus beyond a typical 5.9. For those familiar with Yosemite’s classic cracks, expect a softer rating, but also anticipate a few tricky moves where dirt and loose rock obscure natural holds.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack is essential here. Be ready to clean out an infilled crack on the first pitch to find solid placements, and expect to place pro amidst loose blocks. A helmet is strongly recommended due to frequent rockfall potential.

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Tags

loose rock
chimney
approach climb
dirt-filled crack
multi-pitch
north yosemite