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Anything for 50 Bucks: A Classic Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Welsford, New Brunswick Canada
trad
crack climbing
single pitch
sandstone
moderate exposure
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Anything for 50 Bucks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Anything for 50 Bucks offers climbers a focused trad experience on a compact single pitch at Joe’s Garage. With a mix of crack climbing and slab moves, this 5.6 R route challenges both gear placement and technique in a quiet, scenic New Brunswick setting."

Anything for 50 Bucks: A Classic Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Anything for 50 Bucks stands out in the rugged Cochrane Lane Cliffs as a straightforward, yet thoughtfully engaging single-pitch trad climb. Located just outside the small community of Welsford in New Brunswick, this 65-foot route offers a raw connection with the rock that rewards careful gear placement and quiet focus. The climb begins with a solid move up the crack system known as Snakepeel, where hands and fingers seek out well-defined holds while pro is placed with reliable security — a reassuring start that sets the tone for the ascent. Once anchored on an inviting ledge, you pivot your attention toward a subtle slab section threading between Snakepeel and the adjacent line, It’s a Way of Life. This slab demands a slightly different style, encouraging balance and footwork on textured stone rather than relying strictly on hand jams. Moving past the slab, the route presses right onto a vertical wall carved by clean cracks that guide you steadily upward. Here, the rock requests a refined touch where protection is crucial, especially given the moderately loose rating hinting at potential runouts that challenge a climber’s confidence and control. The final step is a move left to reach a secure rap ring anchor, from which climbers can prepare for a safe descent or set up for a second climb.The surrounding rock reflects the seasoned character of this trad route, with sandstone offering a reliable but occasionally sharp texture that demands gloves for sensitive fingertips and sharp focus on gear. The exposure provides a sweeping vantage on the quiet valley below, lending a moment of tranquility amid the exertion. Low traffic and moderate approach make this a practical choice for those seeking a solid trad route that's approachable yet not without its testing moments. Gear up with a rack topped at 1" cams, ankle-to-fist sized devices will suffice, but committing to solid placements remains vital to navigating the "R" rating safely. Approach from the base involves well-marked trails that slice through mixed forest before transitioning to open shelf-like ledges, ideal for a clear, dry climb. Timing your day with mid-morning sun on the cliff face enhances grip and visibility, while late afternoon brings cooling shade that helps temper early summer heat. Whether you’re honing trad skills or looking to savor a purposeful climb away from crowded crags, Anything for 50 Bucks pairs straightforward movement with pockets of technical finesse, offering an accessible introduction to the cliffs around Joe's Garage without sacrificing a touch of challenge or reward.

Climber Safety

The ‘R’ rating suggests potential runouts; climbers must place solid protection especially on the vertical wall cracks. The sandstone can be sharp, so handle gear placements carefully and check all anchors before descending. Avoid the route when wet to prevent slippery slabs and unstable footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning sun which improves rock grip on the slab section.

Use gloves during gear placements to protect fingers from sharp sandstone edges.

Scout the rap ring carefully before lowering to ensure rope runs smoothly.

Bring a rack focused on smaller to medium cams; larger gear isn’t necessary.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 R
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6 R, this route sits comfortably in the moderate trad range but the ‘R’ rating flags sections where protection isn’t abundant, requiring measured climbing and solid gear judgment. The crux lies in balancing slab moves while managing slabby feet and cracks with less obvious protection spots. Compared to nearby routes in Joe’s Garage, it demands more on-foot confidence and a willingness to trust your gear decisions.

Gear Requirements

A single rack of cams up to 1 inch covers the necessary placements, with particular attention needed on the crack systems along Snakepeel and the vertical wall. Minimal fixed gear means all protection comes from your rack.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
single pitch
sandstone
moderate exposure