Anthrax: A Dynamic Trad Climb at Joshua Tree's Lost Horse Area

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad crack
desert
single pitch
Joshua Tree
left dihedral
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Anthrax
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Anthrax offers climbers a compelling left-facing dihedral in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area. A single-pitch trad route rated 5.8, it balances moderate challenge with dependable granite, making it a rewarding climb for those stepping into the desert’s stone playground."

Anthrax: A Dynamic Trad Climb at Joshua Tree's Lost Horse Area

Anthrax stakes its claim just around the bend from Playwright, offering an engaging left-facing dihedral that invites climbers with a mix of familiar texture and subtle challenge. This single-pitch, 60-foot route stands as a solid introduction to Trad climbing in Joshua Tree National Park’s Lost Horse Area, where granite walls rise steeply under an expanse of Californian sky. The climb’s hold variations and its natural rhythm engage both body and mind, set against a backdrop of sun-baked rock and desert breeze.

The climb’s 5.8 rating holds a bit of debate; while the original ascender, Ben Bartlett, described it as a 5.8, many find the moves demand a touch more commitment, edging closer to a 5.9 territory. This nuance marks Anthrax as a technical yet approachable challenge, especially for climbers stepping up from slab or sport routes into more traditional protection styles. Gear placements follow a standard rack pattern, but spacing and natural features reward thoughtful placement rather than brute strength.

The route’s protection is straightforward, accommodating cams and nuts without forcing risky or difficult placements. This accessibility, combined with moderate exposure, makes Anthrax a favored option for climbers seeking a grounded experience amid Joshua Tree’s distinctive desert landscape. It’s a space where the rock almost seems alive, inviting a tactile and focused engagement.

Approaching Anthrax is an adventure in itself—Lost Horse Road provides a steady, dusty path to the Playhouse Rock area, where hiking across flat granite slabs leads to the base. Expect a 15 to 20-minute walk under the sun, with little shade to break the glare, so timing your climb early or late in the day brings cooler temps and softer light. The desert air carries the creak and whisper of wind through sparse vegetation, sharpening the senses and prepping bodies for the physical dialogue ahead.

Safety considerations are straightforward but crucial: the rock quality is mostly solid granite, yet caution is advised around loose edges at the base and along the trail. As with all Joshua Tree climbs, carrying ample water, sun protection, and a helmet is non-negotiable. The desert climate is harsh and unforgiving, with rapid shifts from broiling heat to chilly evenings.

This route is not just a climb—it's a conversation with the ancient granite, a test of skill and gear management that rewards precision. Anthrax stands as a testament to Joshua Tree’s raw appeal—accessible yet demanding, offering desert solitude alongside the thrill of traditional climbing.

Whether you are stepping into trad climbing or sharpening your edge, Anthrax gives you a vivid taste of Joshua Tree’s timeless allure, placing you face to face with the rock’s history and challenge.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is generally reliable, but stay vigilant for loose edges at the climb’s start and along the trail. Desert conditions necessitate extra hydration and sun protection—temperatures can climb quickly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the desert heat and enjoy softer morning light on the rock.

Bring plenty of water and sun guard; shade is minimal on approach and route.

Check your rack carefully—no fixed gear on route, so be prepared for full trad protection.

Watch for loose rock near the base and stay alert during the dusty hike in.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.8, many climbers find Anthrax stretches into 5.9 territory, especially due to the technical footwork and placement demands. The grade feels moderately stiff for the rating but remains approachable for intermediate trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack of cams and nuts is sufficient. Placements are intuitive but benefit from careful selection to optimize protection.

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Tags

trad crack
desert
single pitch
Joshua Tree
left dihedral