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Ant Farm at Hemingway Buttress: Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Twentynine Palms, California United States
left-facing dihedral
steep flakes
fixed piton start
bomber protection
single pitch
desert climb
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ant Farm
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ant Farm carves a precise, 50-foot trad line on the East Face of Hemingway Buttress in Joshua Tree. Perfect for climbers seeking bomber protection alongside crisp flakes and a memorable dihedral in the desert’s stark heart."

Ant Farm at Hemingway Buttress: Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Ant Farm presents a focused, single-pitch trad climb on the East Face Left of Hemingway Buttress, a compelling slice of Joshua Tree’s rugged landscape. Starting about 200 feet to the left of the well-known Overseer route, this climb requires attentive footwork along steep flakes that weave past a small resilient bush rooting itself in the rock’s crevices—nature’s quiet resistance amidst the stark desert. The route leads into a striking left-facing dihedral, its right wall tinged with a distinctive brown patina that catches the afternoon light, offering both visual contrast and texture under hand and foot.

Though the line itself is relatively short at just 50 feet, it demands precise gear placements on bomber protection that inspire confidence yet reward care in placement. A fixed piton at the start anchors the initial moves, located immediately left of the bolted face climb, Horn Dog, providing a clear point of reference for approach and start. The climb’s position on the East Face ensures morning sunlight warms the rock early, but afternoon shade softens temperatures, making it a solid choice for cooler months or early day ascents.

After completing the pitch, climbers can descend via a convenient rappel from a sturdy tree positioned about 20 feet to the right of the top, avoiding the need to downclimb loose terrain or navigate tricky ledges. Accessing Ant Farm requires a short approach through the Lost Horse area of Joshua Tree National Park—terrain replete with desert scrub, creosote bushes, and granite boulders stacked like ancient monuments. The trail is straightforward and well-traveled, with ample room to stash gear and settle into the rhythms of desert climbing.

This route epitomizes straightforward traditional climbing with a touch of desert character. The flakes and dihedral provide engaging holds without overwhelming complexity, making it accessible for intermediates honing crack skills or for seasoned climbers wanting a quick desert tick. Planning your attempt with hydration in mind is key—especially in warmer months when Joshua Tree’s heat can rise sharply in the sun. Sturdy shoes with sticky rubber will aid in stabilizing foot placements on the flaky granite, and bringing a small brush to clean holds can enhance grip and confidence along the line.

In essence, Ant Farm is a balanced blend of desert grit and classic trad climbing that rewards those who appreciate solid protection, modest yardage, and the quiet charm of a tucked-away route in one of California’s premier climbing landscapes.

Climber Safety

Although protection is solid, be mindful of sharp edges near flake placements that can wear slings and rope. The rappel tree is reliable but always double-check the anchor for stability before descending. Desert conditions demand careful hydration and sun protection—heat exhaustion risks grow rapidly under direct sun.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid midday heat and enjoy morning sun on the face.

Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes to navigate the flaky granite effectively.

Carry adequate water; desert conditions can dehydrate you quickly.

Use the rappel tree 20 feet right of the finish for a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels consistent with the moderate technical demand of the flakes and dihedral. It offers a straightforward crack climb without any unexpected cruxes, making the grade approachable but engaging, particularly for climbers stepping up from easier desert climbs. Compared to nearby Overseer, Ant Farm feels slightly more protective and accessible, a good choice for those wanting solid gear opportunities without complex route-finding.

Gear Requirements

Bomber protection anchors this climb, with reliable placements in the dihedral and a fixed piton stationed at the start. A standard trad rack with a focus on medium to large cams will cover the flake placements well.

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Tags

left-facing dihedral
steep flakes
fixed piton start
bomber protection
single pitch
desert climb