"Another Way offers a gritty single-pitch trad experience, hugging thin cracks and bold corners with a launch that tests both nerves and gear judgment. It’s a route for those ready to embrace loose rock and stealthy placements in the heart of Boulder Canyon."
Another Way stands as a rugged trad climb on the edge of Boulder Canyon, offering an unvarnished route that rewards cautious persistence. Starting just left of the well-known Runaway, this 130-foot single pitch carves a path up a series of thin, discontinuous cracks that transition into bold corners near the summit. The approach leads right below the Lower Tier, skirting its right side before gaining a climber’s trail to the Upper Tier’s flank. The climb begins at a constructed platform marking Another Way's start, where the rock’s personality immediately commands respect — patches of lichen cling stubbornly, and large blocks emit a subtle warning: not all holds can be taken for granted.
The bottom section requires a patient hand; some key placements demand excavation to clear dirt, while certain cam placements feel unreliable at first touch. This precarious base sets a tone of alertness that continues upward where the route climbs a slot on the right side of a small roof, protected by a #3 Camalot. Moves here flow into a horizontal crack that offers the security of a small cam, allowing transition towards a narrow right-side pillar that can thump under weight — a reminder of the mountain’s raw, untamed nature. Red Alien and a small brass piece nearby provide further anchors as you edge right to reach a jug hold. For those who can't latch on to this jug, a more demanding sequence extending right may present itself as a crux at around 5.10 difficulty.
The climb unfolds on easier terrain after this, angling right to meet a prominent left-facing corner that guides the final push to the top. Here, climbers pass a hanging block beneath the ceiling — a cautionary landmark demanding deliberate movement — before finishing on a shelf crowned by a solitary tree marking the belay. Variations to the left exist but rely on clean rock and perhaps a bit more route-finding.
Descending is straightforward but requires attention: scramble down a short distance to climber’s right from the belay tree, arriving at a meadow before heading downhill and circling back beneath the Upper Tier. Planning your time on this climb is key; the exposed nature and loose rock suggest dry, cool conditions are ideal to avoid slipping or dislodging unstable debris.
Gear choices shape the experience here — doubles from brass to #2 Camalot are recommended, with a single #3 Camalot for the roof crack. Fingers can likely be covered by singles, but extra #0.75 cams may be wise to carry if available. Double ropes will aid in managing the route’s zigzag sections and protect against knock-on hazards.
Another Way demands respect but offers a chance for a quieter trad adventure in Boulder Canyon. It’s a climb that balances challenge with accessibility, well-suited to trad climbers ready to commit to cleaning and careful placements. Expect to engage with the rock honestly, weighing each move and anchor with care while soaking in the rugged Colorado vibe not far from the buzz of Boulder itself.
Loose rock and lichen on key holds require cautious movement and thorough cleaning where possible. The bottom section has several loose blocks that may shift under weight, so test placements carefully and maintain clear communication with your belayer. Approach carefully to avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below.
Start approach by walking below the Lower Tier on its right side for best access.
Bring tools or patience to clean dirt from key gear placements before climbing.
Scout the thumper blocks and avoid trusting them fully while weighting.
Climb in dry, cool weather to prevent slipping on lichen and loose rock.
Prepare doubles from brass to #2 Camalot and carry a single #3 Camalot for the roof section. Consider bringing extra #0.75 cams as placements on the lower half can be tricky, and double ropes will help manage the route’s zigzag path and loose sections.
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