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Annie's Arete: A Bold Trad Challenge in Yosemite's Lower Falls Amphitheater

Yosemite Village,California ,United States
arete
trad
single pitch
granite
technical
sustained
Yosemite Valley
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Annie's Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Annie's Arete

5.10a, Trad

Yosemite Village

California ,United States

Overview

"Annie's Arete presents a focused trad test along a sharp arete in Yosemite’s Lower Falls Amphitheater. With sustained technical moves and mixed protection, it offers both challenge and character in one concise pitch."

Annie's Arete: A Bold Trad Challenge in Yosemite's Lower Falls Amphitheater

Annie's Arete offers a compact yet demanding trad climb in the shadow of Yosemite Falls, inviting climbers into a dynamic dance across vertical granite edged with sharp features. This single-pitch route stretches 60 feet along an exposed arete that begins with technical face climbing. The rock challenges you immediately—smooth slabs that require delicate footwork and precise hand placements. Early on, a traverse moves left toward the first bolt, setting the tone for a climb that rewards control and steady breathing.

After negotiating a mantle move—a test of upper-body composure—you swing right to lock onto the arete itself. Sustained movements keep you engaged here, as the thin edge demands balance and the judicious placement of gear nestled in cracks varying up to 1 inch. Protection is a hybrid of five bolts and traditional gear, with careful placements essential between the first and second bolts to maintain a solid safeguard. Climbers should anticipate moments where gear spots feel sparse but trustworthy.

The Lower Falls Amphitheater location offers more than just vertical exposure. The surroundings buzz with the raw vitality of Yosemite Valley's north side. Pines sway gently in the mountain breeze, and distant sounds of cascading waters remind you of the towering falls a stone’s throw away. The rock’s texture shifts subtly, giving tactile variety to each move while sunlight filters around the imposing cliffs, shifting as the day progresses.

Approach to Annie’s Arete is straightforward yet demands awareness—access is via a short hike into the Lower Falls Amphitheater with well-marked trails that wind past Yosemite Falls viewpoints. The granite here is firm but can become slippery after rain or moisture, so timing your climb for dry conditions is vital. Late spring through early autumn offers the best window, with mornings providing cooler temperatures before the sun climbs high.

For climbers wanting to warm up or practice top-roping, the 5.6 crack below offers an easier introduction, leading to a few moves up and left, allowing a second ascent of Annie’s Arete on top rope. This mix of moderate and technical terrain makes the climb flexible for different skill levels, though the sustained 5.10a rating means it tests power and finesse firmly.

Ultimately, Annie’s Arete is a test of purposeful climbing—each move precise, gear placements deliberate. The climb’s exposed position in a renowned national park sets a backdrop that feels alive, where nature challenges and supports in equal measure. With mindful preparation around gear, timing, and approach, climbers will find here a rewarding route that sharpens skills in a world-class setting.

Climber Safety

Protection spots between the first and second bolt can be limited, requiring focus and confidence in gear placements. The rock is generally solid, but granite slabs may become slick with moisture. Ensure dry conditions and secure footing before attempting mantel moves.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach on established trails around Yosemite Falls for the safest access.

Avoid climbing when granite is wet; the rock can be slippery after rain or morning dew.

Early morning climbs offer cooler temperatures and less direct sun exposure.

Bring a rack with cams up to 1 inch and a few nuts for optimal protection placement.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Annie's Arete challenges climbers with sustained moves along the arete that require precision and strength. The grade feels fair for its technical demands, though the mantle early on can bump the effort slightly higher. Compared to other Upper Valley pitches, it sits comfortably above moderate 5.8–5.9 climbs but is accessible for climbers stepping into more serious trad moves.

Gear Requirements

The route uses a combination of five bolts and traditional gear placements up to 1". Pay special attention to placements between the first and second bolt where pro can be tricky but crucial. A standard trad rack with small cams and nuts will cover the necessary protection.

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Tags

arete
trad
single pitch
granite
technical
sustained
Yosemite Valley