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Annakarina: Sport Climbing at Spanky's Playground, Newfoundland

Flatrock, Canada
arete
technical
sport
single pitch
pebbly rock
close bolts
5.11a
Newfoundland
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Annakarina
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Annakarina offers a concentrated 50-foot challenge on a bold arete at Spanky's Playground, blending sharp moves with close bolts for a technical sport climbing experience. Perfect for those ready to push into 5.11a territory on Newfoundland’s rugged eastern coast."

Annakarina: Sport Climbing at Spanky's Playground, Newfoundland

Annakarina stands out on the Flatrock face of Spanky's Playground with a sharp, distinctive arete that invites climbers to test their precision and composure. This single-pitch sport route offers roughly 50 feet of technical climbing that unfolds over well-placed bolts, guiding you past a sharp notch and then onto a stretch of gritty, pebble-strewn rock to the summit. The climbing delivers a compact, cryptic challenge—a boulder problem crux demanding exact footwork and confident movement. Though short, the climb’s blunt arete demands focus, and the close spacing of bolts eliminates the need for a stick clip, streamlining your lead.

Located on the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland, this route is part of a small but rugged climbing area that feels quietly remote while offering a rich outdoor experience. The north Atlantic air carries a cool moisture that breathes life into the rock, and the surrounding landscape holds a raw, windswept character that complements the straightforward toughness of the route.

Leading Annakarina requires attention to gear and safety. The six bolts protect most transitions on the face, but the two-bolt anchor at the top is better approached from the ground up; the anchor itself is inaccessible safely from above, so leading first is essential. The rock’s texture offers solid friction, yet the pebble-dusted section near the top demands careful foot placement to avoid slips. With a climbing rating of 5.11a, this route offers strong challenges for those pushing into more advanced sport climbing territory.

The approach is short and direct, making Annakarina an excellent choice for climbers seeking a sharp, technical redpoint on Newfoundland’s eastern shore. While the climb isn't long, it racks up intensity through its concentrated crux and consistent bolt protection. Expect brisk coastal conditions—bring appropriate footwear with sticky rubber, and time your ascent for the warmer hours when the rock is dry and sticky.

Spanky's Playground is a compact climbing area that rewards climbers looking for focused routes amid rugged coastal terrain. Here, isolation enhances appreciation for the climb, along with expansive views that stretch toward the distant sea. The route’s sharp edges and pebble inflections push your technique, making Annakarina a standout challenge when conditions align. Plan accordingly and approach with respect for the rocky environment and the ocean breeze that shapes it.

Climber Safety

The top anchor is not safely accessible from above; always lead this route first. The pebble-covered rock near the top can be slippery when wet, so dry conditions are essential. Take care with coastal winds that may affect balance and grip during the ascent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Lead the route first to safely access the top anchor; it’s not reachable from above.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better friction on the pebble-covered top section.

Approach mid-to-late morning for optimum warmth and dry rock conditions.

Check wind forecasts; coastal breezes can chill the rock and your grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a grading fits the route’s short but intense character, with a bouldery crux that requires precise body positioning. Unlike longer pitch climbs with multiple rests, Annakarina demands sustained focus, making the grade feel just right rather than soft. Climbers familiar with compact technical routes in the region will find similarities here, though the route’s blunt arete adds a unique hold configuration to negotiate.

Gear Requirements

Six well-spaced bolts protect the climb with a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top. No stick clip needed due to close bolt spacing, but leading first is recommended since the anchor can’t be safely accessed from above.

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Tags

arete
technical
sport
single pitch
pebbly rock
close bolts
5.11a
Newfoundland