"Animas Que No Amanezca challenge climbers with a focused 55-foot sport route in La Hidroelectrica, Mexico. This technical 5.11a single pitch demands precision and endurance along a textured limestone wall under the midday sun."
Animas Que No Amanezca offers climbers a focused sport climbing challenge amid the rocky outcrops of La Hidroelectrica in Central Mexico. This single pitch route stretches a demanding 55 feet, presenting a tight sequence rated 5.11a PG13 that will test your technique and mental grit without straying into overly punishing terrain. From the moment you clip the first bolt on the right side of Mercurio Liquido to the final anchor chains, the climb invites a controlled intensity framed by the rugged limestone’s textured face. The rock’s surface provides enough friction and subtle holds, pushing your finger strength while requiring deliberate movement and balance.
Located in a climbing area that quietly thrives outside Mexico’s busiest crags, Animas Que No Amanezca balances accessibility with solitude. The approach is a manageable trek through mixed terrain, with the local environment lending an earthy scent of dry brush and sunbaked stone that accompanies your ascent. The route sits on a wall oriented to catch midday sun, ideal for climbing in cooler morning hours when the warmth has not yet exhausted your reserves. Expect the rock to warm quickly, so plan your push to avoid the harshest heat, especially during Mexico’s hot season.
Protection comes in the form of ten well-spaced quickdraws, making gear efficiency a priority. The bolted anchors are solid, with fixed chains marking your finish to ensure a secure top-out and safe descent. While the route’s length keeps you close to the ground, the move sequences demand commitment; the crux sits in a sustained pocket section mid-wall where precision and forearm endurance lock the outcome. This climb shakes off casual attempts and rewards those prepared with steady footwork, controlled breathing, and confidence in clipping.
For this route, sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will serve you well, complemented by a chalk bag sized for short, intense efforts. Hydration on approach and post-climb is a practical must, given the sun’s relentless presence and the limited shade nearby. Beyond the technical beta, the surrounding area offers a chance to soak up sweeping views of volcanic slopes and the vibrant skies of Jalisco’s highland country. The descent is straightforward, with fixed anchors allowing a reliable rappel or careful downclimb.
Whether you are sharpening your send on a commitment route or looking to add a punchy 5.11a to your portfolio without a lengthy approach, Animas Que No Amanezca delivers a direct, engaging encounter with Mexico’s evolving sport climbing scene. The route’s measured difficulty and high-quality bolts invite consistent attempts while preserving the terrain’s raw character. Bring your focus, respect the sun, and prepare for a climb that moves fast, feels technical, and leaves you ready for the next challenge on this impressive limestone face.
The fixed anchor chains at the top are reliable, but climbers should double-check gear and anchor setups before descending. The route lacks shade, increasing risk of dehydration and heat exhaustion on sunny days.
Start early to beat the midday heat; the wall heats rapidly under the sun.
Bring shoes with stiff edging to handle small pockets and crimps.
Hydrate thoroughly before and after the climb; shade near the route is minimal.
Use the fixed chains at the top for a safe rappel descent or careful downclimb.
The climb is protected by 10 well-placed quickdraw bolts. Climbers should prepare to clip efficiently and trust the solid fixed chains at the top for anchor and descent.
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