5.9, Trad
Poway
California ,United States
"Angel of Mercy is a focused one-pitch trad climb weaving a careful hand traverse into a clean face section on Miller Time Wall. Perfect for trad climbers looking to hone gear skills amidst San Diego's arid crags."
Angel of Mercy offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb on the rugged Miller Time Wall that challenges both your technique and judgement. The route begins with a deliberate hand traverse moving steadily right, demanding precision and controlled movement to maintain balance and flow. Along this offset traverse, climbers find opportunities for protection with a well-placed blue TCU, bridging the gap between older fixed bolts that show their age and the natural gear placements that the route favors. Once past this sideways dance, the climb shifts into a clean, workable face climb that rewards steady footwork and trust in subtle holds.
The weathered bolts, tinged with rust, remind you to rely primarily on gear placements rather than fixed anchors. From the smallest 0.6-inch cams to orange Metolius, this climb leans on your rack-building skills. Planning to bring a set of smaller cams to complement the route’s protection style will help you feel secure as you ascend this 60-foot line. The quality of rock is typical of the Poway Crags area—solid but marked by the passage of time and exposure.
Set in the northern reaches of San Diego County, the Miller Time Wall sits within a landscape where chaparral and open rock faces meet the coastal climate zone. The approach trails are moderate, threading through dry brush and intermittent shade, and the climb’s short length makes it accessible for a half-day outing. Ideal weather windows tend to fall outside the summer heat, with spring and fall providing cooler conditions optimal for friction and stamina.
While the climb is straightforward in length, its mix of old bolts and natural protection requires attention. You'll want reliable shoes with solid edging ability for the face climb, and hydration is key—water sources are sparse near the trailhead. A thoughtful ascent plan, combined with familiarity with trad gear placements on similar moderate routes, can make Angel of Mercy a rewarding test of modest altitude and gear management.
Those seeking an introduction to Miller Time Wall’s eco-toned sandstone will find this route a solid entry point, balancing a technical first pitch with an accessible length. The climb encourages a hands-on approach to protection, blending fixed pieces with traditional placements woven into the rock’s natural features. Local climbers appreciate the route’s blend of subtle challenge and straightforward beta, with a practical approach that welcomes both newer trad climbers and seasoned adventurers looking for a crisp, sunny pitch in the Poway Crags.
Rusty bolts necessitate backing up fixed protection with active gear placements—never rely solely on old hardware. The approach features dry brush, so be mindful of ticks and the risk of loose footing near the base.
Plan your approach early to avoid heat—spring and fall offer better friction and comfort.
Check gear thoroughly as older fixed bolts show corrosion; trust your cams for safety.
Wear shoes with reliable edging to manage the delicate face climb confidently.
Pack ample water since local sources near the trailhead are limited.
Bring a full rack emphasizing smaller cams (0.6 inch) through medium-sized metolius cams and TCUs, especially a blue TCU for optimal protection during the initial traverse. Bolts are present but rusty and best treated as supplementary anchors rather than primary protection.
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