Rising boldly from the rugged cliffs of Taylor Canyon, Angel Dust commands attention as a pure hand and finger crack that slices up the heart of PCP Pinnacle. From the winding roadway below, this splitter crack stands unmistakable—a clear invitation that draws both seasoned climbers and ambitious newcomers eager to test their skills on Colorado’s high country stone. The climb covers 170 feet vertically, delivered in a single, continuous pitch that demands focus and finesse as you ascend its clean, demanding line.

Starting at the base, your fingers find purchase in the crisp fissure, the rock offering a tactile conversation that rewards precision. The crack widens and narrows with rhythmic certainty, offering secure jams and technical hand stacks that engage your technique at every move. About halfway up, the route challenges you with a delicate crux: a rickety flake trapped inside the crack requires thoughtful movement and steady composure to navigate safely. This section isn’t just a physical test—it asks for mental precision, making this the moment where many climbers feel the route’s true character.

Protection is mostly reliable, a relief on a climb where commitment is part of the allure. The gear placements—wires, nuts, and cams—fit well within the crack’s varying width, which keeps the protection straightforward but demands careful gear selection. Taylor Canyon’s classic rack will equip you well, with a range of sizes needed to cover the hand-to-wide crack system.

Approaching the summit, climbers face a fork in the experience. Most opt for the standard finish: a leftward traverse along a spacious ledge that offers a moment to catch your breath and scope out the next move. Here, a right-leaning hand crack leads the way upward with solid 5.7 climbing—smooth, protected, and inviting to keep momentum before topping out. For those seeking a stiffer challenge, the direct finish requires a bold push straight up the steep wall, where pro is scarce and the difficulty spikes to a sweaty 5.10. Though easy to top-rope, leading this variation demands fearless determination and sharp skills.

The setting enhances the climb’s appeal. Taylor Canyon is a quiet outpost of wilderness, with granite faces gripping the skyline and pine-scented air brushing against your skin as sun and shadow shift over the rock. Views extend across Gunnison’s forested valleys and distant peaks, anchoring the climb in a landscape that feels vast yet intimate. This route shares its spirit with nearby gems like Mirror Crack on Rosy Lane wall, showcasing the distinct, quality crack climbing that the area is celebrated for.

Angel Dust teaches patience and rewards investment, offering an experience that balances adventure with achievable challenge. The approach is short and manageable, perfect for a half-day climb or a focused afternoon session. Bring sturdy footwear to handle the scrambles and bring extra water for summer ascents as the sun can heat exposed sections of the approach trail. Whether you’re locking fingers into its splitter crack for the first time or revisiting to hone your crack climbing technique, Angel Dust stands ready to meet your ambition with pure granite determination.