"Discover a deceptively accessible trad climb in Murrin Park’s welcoming granite. Ancient Squamish Secret pairs easy crack climbing with a delicate 5.9 face crux, offering an approachable yet rewarding experience for trad enthusiasts."
Ancient Squamish Secret invites climbers to engage with Squamish’s classic granite through a single-pitch trad route that combines straightforward moves with moments demanding precise attention. Located in Murrin Park, this climb offers a balance of approachable terrain and subtle challenges against the backdrop of coastal forest and granite cliffs. The initial section drifts along easy cracks and natural features, easing you upward with moves around 5.4 difficulty, allowing you to find your rhythm and get a feel for the rock’s texture—a mix of solid granite and modest edges. This beginning sets a relaxed pace, perfect for warming up or those newer to traditional protection. The climb’s character shifts as you reach a small alcove where you pull a comfortable jug, signaling the transition into the steeper, more engaging upper half. Here, a thin seam demands thoughtful footwork and steady hands as you navigate the 5.9 crux. The route compels climbers to commit to delicate gear placements, particularly with nuts, making attention to protection essential. Fortunately, the rock remains featured enough to keep the effort manageable without excessive difficulty or overhangs. Protection runs smoothly with stable nuts and smaller cams, allowing flexibility in gear choice around the bottom section. At the top, fixed chains provide a reliable anchor, an important reassurance after the delicate face moves. The climb’s length—around 80 feet—fits well into a half-day climbing session, making it accessible for climbers wanting a focused and satisfying experience without complicated logistics. Approaching the route involves a short hike through Murrin Park’s mixed forest trails, with GPS coordinates steering you to the base. Though the approach is straightforward, be prepared for some uneven terrain and watch for damp patches, especially after rain. The wall’s east-facing orientation catches morning light but offers enough shade to keep conditions comfortable through midday. Seasonal climbing windows open from late spring to early fall, when temperature and rock dryness align for the best experience. Upon topping out, descent is a single rappel from the fixed chains, smooth and safe when handled with standard rigging. This route is ideal for intermediate climbers seeking a real taste of classic Squamish trad climbing—where solid placements and moderate technical demands blend with scenic touches and a touch of adventure. Whether working on gear skills or enjoying a rewarding climb with friends, Ancient Squamish Secret keeps things clear, inviting, and firmly rooted in the natural granite environment that defines this corner of British Columbia’s climbing world.
Stay vigilant around the alcove area where loose rock may shift, and always test gear placements carefully, especially small nuts and cams. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet to maintain secure foot holds.
Start early for cooler granite and better grip on the upper face.
Pack a helmet; loose flakes can appear, especially near the alcove.
Check weather and avoid wet rock; damp granite reduces friction on tricky moves.
Approach trail can be slippery after rain—wear footwear with good traction.
Bring a range of small protection—wires and cams down to sizes like blue Metolius serve well for the bottom section. The route accommodates various small placements, but attention to nuts is key for the thin upper seam. Fixed chains at the top streamline your anchor setup.
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