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Anatomy Lesson: A Classic Trad Climb on McQuirks Mountain

McQuirks Mountain,Canada
crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
steep crux
mid-sized protection
forest approach
Grade: 5.7 PG13
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Anatomy Lesson
Aspect
South Facing

Anatomy Lesson

5.7 PG13, Trad

McQuirks Mountain

Canada

Overview

"Anatomy Lesson delivers an engaging 80-foot trad climb along vertical cracks on McQuirks Mountain. Its accessible but steep crux, backed by solid gear opportunities, makes it a rewarding test for trad climbers seeking an approachable challenge."

Anatomy Lesson: A Classic Trad Climb on McQuirks Mountain

Carving a path up McQuirks Mountain, Anatomy Lesson stands out as a compelling test of traditional climbing finesse. This single-pitch route, stretching a solid 80 feet, challenges the climber with a mix of steep vertical cracks that demand sharp movements and confident gear placements. The route opens with a welcoming warmth from the sun, gradually shifting to cooler shade as you ascend, framing the climb in changing light and mood. The rock feels alive beneath your fingers, with cracks that invite both hands and protection while offering a satisfying grip on textured stone. Near the top, a steeper crux rises about twenty feet from the belay, requiring a brief moment of concentrated effort—a section that, while protected, still asks for precise footwork and mental focus. The gear here is generally straightforward: a standard rack up to three inches fits comfortably, though it's wise to reserve your 2" piece for the upper cracks where placements grow more valuable. From the belay station, views spill out into the surrounding forested landscape of New Brunswick, while the sense of exposure remains balanced, providing both thrill and security. Approach trails from the parking area wind through mixed woodland over moderate terrain, keeping the transition to the climb manageable and inviting. Anatomy Lesson offers an excellent entry into the classic trad climbs of McQuirks Mountain, combining accessible technical moves with rewarding surroundings that encourage both novice and practiced climbers to push their limits carefully and confidently.

Climber Safety

Watch for the short runout near the crux twenty feet above the belay; while protection is generally good, the spacing there calls for focused movement and secure footwork. Weather can tighten rock edges, so avoid climbing after rain to limit slipping hazards.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.7 PG13
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning sun on the approach trail and the lower wall.

Carry gloves or tape for hand protection on the sharp crack edges.

Check gear placements carefully near the crux where runouts can extend slightly.

Hydrate before the climb; the approach is under forest cover but can get warm in late spring.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.7 PG13 grade feels approachable but demands respect through its steep fifteen-foot crux above the belay. The rating holds true to the effort required—challenging without overwhelming—offering a balanced difficulty that fits comfortably between easy and moderate. Compared to nearby climbs, Anatomy Lesson leans into technical gear placement and crack technique rather than sheer athleticism.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 3 inches, but keep a 2-inch piece handy for the upper sections where placements get tighter and more critical.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
steep crux
mid-sized protection
forest approach