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An Erection Lasting Longer Than 5 Hours

Joshua Tree, California United States
slab
short route
sport bolts
desert
Joshua Tree
technical footwork
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
An Erection Lasting Longer Than 5 Hours
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A short but technical sport climb on Transcendence Cliff near Forty Nine Palms Oasis, this 30-foot slab challenges climbers with its rough texture and multiple crux options. Ideal for refining slab technique in Joshua Tree’s stark desert setting."

An Erection Lasting Longer Than 5 Hours

In the stark expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, the route known as An Erection Lasting Longer Than 5 Hours offers a unique challenge that contrasts the usual granite sharpness with unexpected texture and movement. This short, single-pitch sport climb stretches 30 feet along Transcendence Cliff near the Forty Nine Palms Oasis area, where the desert air hums with dry heat and distant cacti casts long morning shadows. The rock, initially rough and unpredictable underfoot, demands careful foot placement and deliberate balance. While the surface may feel uneven now, ongoing natural wear promises this slab will smooth out into a rewarding canvas for technique-driven climbing.

With four well-spaced bolts protecting your ascent, the climb provides security but asks for a steady focus on movement—a blend of finesse and patience across varying cruxes depending on the line chosen along the bolt route. The slab shape encourages delicate edge work and subtle shifts in body position, an invitation to hone your slab climbing skills in an environment where the desert sun sharpens every sensation. The anchor rig at the top simplifies the descent with a secure setup to rappel or a straightforward walk-off down unmarked but manageable terrain.

Arriving at Transcendence Cliff, the quiet energy of Joshua Tree looms large, with the iconic rock formations standing under a wide, clear sky, the occasional desert breeze stirring the scent of creosote bushes. This route’s approachable length belies the technical attention it demands; climbers looking to refine balance and slab technique will find it a practical and focused challenge. Given the current state of the rock, bringing climbing shoes with a firm yet sensitive toe and paying close mind to footwork will go a long way. Approach times are short, making this a perfect spot to incorporate into a half-day climbing itinerary around the Forty Nine Palms Oasis.

Because Joshua Tree's climate can shift dramatically, timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon avoids the peak sun while capturing the striking desert light and cooler air. Hydration remains critical in this dry environment; bring ample water and plan for sunscreen and sun protection.

Though the bolt placement grants peace of mind, climbers should remain vigilant as the rock can feel brittle in places, especially during hotter months when desert rock may expand subtly. After topping out, the walk-off requires careful footing among loose stones and brush, but it rewards with a chance to absorb the stark desert landscape, quiet and vast. Whether you're a sport climber refining your slab skills or a visitor eager to engage with Joshua Tree’s diverse routes, An Erection Lasting Longer Than 5 Hours offers a candid, straightforward challenge that balances nature’s rawness with a dependable climbing experience.

Climber Safety

The rock can feel fragile in spots and is currently rough with potential loose flakes. Approach caution is advised, especially in hotter weather when desert rock expands. The walk-off is unmarked and rocky — steady footing is essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the harsh desert sun.

Focus on precise foot placements; delicate edging makes the difference.

Bring enough water—shade is limited on the approach and climb.

Wear flat-soled climbing shoes for better sensitivity on slab features.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels on the softer side but don’t underestimate the subtle cruxes scattered along the bolt line. Climbers unaccustomed to slab climbing may find the balance and movement more demanding than the grade suggests. Compared to other Joshua Tree routes, it leans more into technical finesse than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Protected by four bolts leading to a solid anchor, this route requires sport gear with secure quickdraws optimized for slab climbing. The walk-off is straightforward but demands careful footing.

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Tags

slab
short route
sport bolts
desert
Joshua Tree
technical footwork