American Heavy stakes its claim as one of the most physically demanding routes in Hoods In The Woods, set within the rugged sea-to-sky corridor between Squamish and Whistler. This 55-foot single-pitch climb challenges your body and technique with sustained movement and a particularly demanding mid-section. The rock here demands more than just endurance—it asks for ingenuity and precision, especially near the top where a bulging roof forces you into an athletic leftward reach to gain the final face before the anchors. The climb uncompromisingly tests your core strength and limb coordination, rewarding careful planning for each move.

The sport nature of the route means it’s well protected by six to seven quickdraws that clip into solid bolts, but the physicality raises the ante beyond just safety—this is a climb that requires commitment. The gradual shift in body position through the bulge and onto the face above creates a dynamic feeling, inviting a tactile dialogue with the rock where every hold and foot placement counts. Expect a texture that demands smearing and trust in your shoes, as well as finger strength for the smaller edges.

Located within the broader area known as Hoods In The Woods, this climb lies within a rugged network of crags with varied exposures and fewer crowds compared to more famous locations nearby. The approach here is straightforward but uneven; a short hike through forested trails opens onto rocky ground. Setting off from Squamish, expect around 30 minutes to the base, with GPS coordinates at latitude 49.94289 and longitude -123.16535 guiding your arrival.

American Heavy’s 5.11a rating means it sits comfortably in the intermediate-to-advanced spectrum, and regular climbers from the area will note that it feels appropriately graded with a solid crux that forces a climber to regroup mid-ascent. If you’re accustomed to sport climbing in this region, you’ll appreciate how its physical demands and creative moves set it apart.

For gear, six to seven quickdraws are enough, and while the route is fully bolted, clip deliberately around the bulge where protection can feel a bit spaced. Anchors up top are fixed rappel anchors, allowing for a confident descent. The wall’s west-facing orientation makes afternoon climbs particularly pleasant, as warming sun guides your holds without baking the rock too hot.

Planning to tackle American Heavy? Be sure to bring climbing shoes with good smearing ability and finger strength to handle the subtle holds. Hydrate before and after the climb; while the approach is short, the effort on the wall is intense. Avoid times with rain, as moisture can make the rock slippery and unsafe. Remember to respect the local environment—take care not to leave any gear or trash behind, and enjoy the raw, physical experience that this standout route offers.