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Alpine Fracture Clinic: A Classic Trad Climb in Mammoth’s Rock Creek

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
crack climbing
dihedral
multi-pitch
alpine
trad
wide crack
roof section
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Alpine Fracture Clinic
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alpine Fracture Clinic in the Gong Show Wall area near Mammoth Lakes offers a solid two-pitch trad climb defined by dihedrals and wide cracks. This accessible route balances technical moves with straightforward protection, making it a must-try for trad climbers in the Eastern Sierra."

Alpine Fracture Clinic: A Classic Trad Climb in Mammoth’s Rock Creek

Perched on the steep face of Gong Show Wall, Alpine Fracture Clinic offers climbers a focused trad experience defined by clean cracks and solid rock in the high Sierra. Just outside Mammoth Lakes, this two-pitch route invites you to engage with varied crack systems and technical moves, promising a memorable alpine climbing outing that balances challenge with accessibility. The first pitch starts with a fun, well-protected dihedral, encouraging confident footwork and subtle hand jams as you navigate upward to a fixed belay. The rock here feels solid beneath your fingers, the granite rough and inviting. The second pitch shifts gears, requiring attention as you work past imposing roofs and settle into a wide crack that demands wider gear placements and smooth technique.

This route’s 5.9 PG13 rating hints at the moderate difficulty peppered with protection challenges; it requires a steady head and gear up to 3 inches. The proximity to Mammoth Lakes means a reasonable approach, allowing climbers to spend more time on the rock and less on the trail. The air is crisp, with pine-scented breezes occasionally whispering through the surrounding forest as the sun arcs across the granite face. Expect a straightforward descent either by lowering from the fixed anchors or continuing to the second pitch for those seeking a fuller taste of the line.

Preparation is key: bringing a robust rack to handle those wide cracks will pay off, as will sturdy footwear and layers suited to alpine conditions where weather can shift quickly. Early morning starts are rewarded with cooler rock and fewer crowds, while late afternoons cast long shadows that cool your grip but add a golden glow to the granite. Whether this is your introduction to the area’s trad climbs or a welcome return, Alpine Fracture Clinic delivers straightforward alpine trad climbing with enough bite to keep the experience engaging and rewarding.

Climber Safety

Despite sound rock and fixed belays, be mindful of spaced protection spots, especially on the second pitch. Loose rocks are uncommon but always inspect placements carefully. Weather can shift rapidly, so plan your ascent early and be prepared for sudden temperature drops.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid afternoon heat.

Bring gear sized to 3 inches for the wide cracks on pitch two.

Fixed belays on pitch one allow for rappelling if desired.

Check weather forecasts closely—conditions in the Sierra can change rapidly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade reflects solid overall difficulty for a trad route with a few gear challenge moments. Pitch one offers a fun dihedral with reliable protection, though runners can be spaced. The crux on pitch two involves navigating past roofs into a wide crack, requiring wider gear and careful technique. Local climbers find the grade fair, with a slight push at the crux that separates it from easier 5.8s in the area.

Gear Requirements

Both pitches require traditional gear with placements up to 3 inches, emphasizing solid crack skills and a well-prepared rack.

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Tags

crack climbing
dihedral
multi-pitch
alpine
trad
wide crack
roof section