HomeClimbingAlice in Wonderjam

Alice in Wonderjam at Alice Rock, Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
fist crack
south-facing
desert granite
walk-off descent
single-pitch
traditional gear
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Alice in Wonderjam
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alice in Wonderjam offers climbers a direct finger-to-fist crack climb on sunlit granite just above the Comic Book area. Its moderate approach and straightforward protection requirements make it a great pick for those seeking classic Joshua Tree crack climbing away from heavier crowds."

Alice in Wonderjam at Alice Rock, Joshua Tree National Park

Alice in Wonderjam is a solid single-pitch trad climb tucked away on a sun-warmed south-facing slab just uphill from the more frequented Comic Book area of Joshua Tree National Park. The approach asks for moderate effort, involving a rocky scramble past towering boulders that stand like silent guardians, their rough surfaces warmed by the desert sun. This climb’s heart is a clean, obvious crack that begins with delicate finger locks and gradually opens up to accommodate full fists. The crack’s texture and angle invite a balanced mix of finesse and power, offering a straightforward but engaging line for climbers seeking a classic Joshua Tree experience away from the bustling popular routes.

Starting at the base of the crack, you’ll find firm rock underfoot and a quality, well-rested atmosphere with minimal shade—a detail to note for summer ascents when the desert heat becomes intense. The climb is short but rewarding, making it an excellent option when paired with nearby routes in the Comic Book area to create a full day of varied climbs.

Protection is straightforward but requires gear up to 3.5 inches, so pack a solid rack of cams and nuts suited for wider placements. The rock quality is typical of Joshua Tree’s granite: rough and textured, providing reliable friction but with occasional sections to check for looseness. The descent is equally practical, involving an easy walk-off to the climber’s right, leading back down the hillside without the need for ropes or technical rappels.

Arriving early to avoid peak heat and giving yourself time to explore the nearby climbs will maximize your experience here. With almost 40 votes attesting to its steady appeal, Alice in Wonderjam offers a no-frills, accessible trad climb steeped in the rugged spirit of Joshua Tree’s desert landscape. Whether you’re moving through the area or seeking a quieter pitch to hone crack climbing skills, this route delivers a balanced challenge with a friendly approach and descent.

Climber Safety

The approach involves a rocky scramble with loose boulders underfoot—be cautious on footing. Rock quality is solid but watch for occasional loose flakes near the base. Heat exposure can be significant mid-day with limited shade; carry adequate water and sun protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid the midday desert heat on this south-facing wall.

The approach involves scrambling uphill past large boulders—wear sturdy footwear with good grip.

Pack protection up to 3.5 inches to comfortably protect the widening crack.

Descent is a straightforward walk-off to the right, so no rappel gear needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating corresponds well with the moderate difficulty and sustained crack climbing style. It is straightforward without any severe cruxes, although the wideness of the crack near the top demands confident jam placements. Compared to nearby climbs in the Comic Book area, Alice in Wonderjam feels accessible yet rewarding for intermediate trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of cams up to 3.5 inches. The crack widens from fingers to fists, so your selection should accommodate varied sizes with solid placements. No fixed gear to rely on, so placing your protection carefully is crucial.

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Tags

finger crack
fist crack
south-facing
desert granite
walk-off descent
single-pitch
traditional gear