"Aleister Crowley, or Brew 102, invites climbers to experience a classic 5.8 crack climb on Joshua Tree’s Left Hand of Darkness. This single-pitch trad route is approachable yet engaging, carving a clean line through warm desert granite with solid protection and timeless desert views."
In the stark, sunbaked landscape of Joshua Tree National Park, Aleister Crowley, widely known as Brew 102, offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb that captures the essence of classic desert cracking. This route picks its way up a clean crack and corner system just left of the popular Left Route on the east face of Left Hand of Darkness. The climb stretches approximately 45 feet, carving a path that is approachable for climbers stepping into the 5.8 trad arena, offering a blend of technical moves and solid protection spots.
Approaching the climb, you’ll move through a rugged desert floor where granite boulders scatter beneath open skies, and the sun beats down with relentless clarity. The crack itself invites hands and fingers to find purchase, a natural groove that guides your upward movement with enough friction and positive holds to keep your feet secure. The surrounding granite, sculpted by eons of erosion, feels warm and textured under your palms, while the desert air carries the occasional whistle of wind through Joshua trees that stand like silent sentinels.
Protection on Brew 102 is straightforward: a standard trad rack will cover the placements you’ll need. The crack accommodates a variety of cams and nuts without much fuss, allowing you to build solid, reassuring anchors. This makes the route ideal for climbers who want to fine-tune their gear placements without battling flared or awkward cracks.
The climb completes in a single pitch, making it perfect for a half-day adventure or as a confident warm-up before more committing lines in the park. With only modest length but consistent climbing, Aleister Crowley rewards control and technique over brute force. Timing your ascent to avoid the midday heat helps preserve energy, as the face offers minimal shade, so early morning or late afternoon sessions are best.
Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area, where Left Hand of Darkness resides, provides a backdrop of iconic desert vistas. The distant outlines of rugged peaks meet the sky, and the subtle scent of dry earth and creosote bushes lingers, grounding you in the desert’s quiet rhythm. While Brew 102 may not boast overwhelming exposure, the crack’s slick, smooth granite demands your full focus, offering moments where hand jams and finger locks feel like a conversation between climber and stone.
For those planning their visit, wearing shoes with sticky rubber and a snug fit is key to confidently navigating the modest feet on the climb. Hydrate well—the desert’s arid air will sap your moisture even before exertion ramps up. And keep an eye on weather, as sudden wind gusts or temperature swings can shift conditions quickly.
Aleister Crowley (Brew 102) is a route that blends practicality with desert charm. It’s a slice of Joshua Tree’s climbing culture, approachable enough for those sharpening trad skills, yet textured enough to leave a lasting impression. Whether you’re revisiting the desert or making your debut, this route invites you to step into a rhythm that’s both steady and alive, in one of California’s finest climbing landscapes.
Watch for loose rock near the base and be mindful of the sun exposure, which can lead to dehydration or heat fatigue. The crack provides good protection, but climbers should double-check placements in the flared sections to ensure secure gear.
Aim for early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh midday sun on the east face.
Bring a well-fitted pair of climbing shoes with sticky rubber for precise footwork.
Carry at least two liters of water—desert conditions dry you out faster than expected.
Check the weather before your trip; sudden desert winds can impact balance and cooling.
Equipped with a standard trad rack covering cams and nuts of various sizes, this route offers reliable placements along its crack and corner. No fixed gear complicates the protection strategy; versatility in small to medium cams is recommended.
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