HomeClimbingAiry Interlude

Airy Interlude: A Classic Trad Adventure in The Witch

Kernville, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
traverse pitch
exposed
mid-range cams
southern sierra
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Airy Interlude
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Airy Interlude offers a classic trad journey through The Witch’s rugged granite face, blending crack systems with an iconic traverse pitch. This three-pitch climb merges technical challenge and sweeping exposure, making it a standout moderate route in the Southern Sierra."

Airy Interlude: A Classic Trad Adventure in The Witch

Perched on the imposing granite face of The Witch in California’s Southern Sierra, Airy Interlude stands out as a compelling three-pitch trad climb that balances thoughtful movement with airy exposure. It’s often hailed as one of the best “moderate” routes in this rugged pocket of the Needles, offering a mix of technical crack climbing and a memorable traverse that tests both strategy and nerve. From the moment you approach the base, you’re drawn to the clean lines and distinct crack systems etched into the rock, inviting climbers to engage with the granite’s honest texture. The climbs begin with a steady ascent up the first major crack system to the left of Igor Unchained’s start, a pitch rated around 5.8 to 5.9 that gently warms your hands and eyes, stretching your rope toward a broad, sloping ledge below the traverse.

The heart of Airy Interlude lives in its second pitch—this is where the route earns its reputation. You move into a right-facing corner carved deep enough to fit a couple of medium-sized cams (0.5 and 0.75 Camalots are essential here). The highlight here is a tricky traverse across the face, demanding precise footwork and calm under pressure as you rely on a somewhat miraculous hold to mantle over the lip of the crack. This pitch is not only technical but visually stunning, as you navigate horizontal moves surrounded by expansive views of The Needles. It feels like the granite itself is daring you forward, a mix of focused climbing and airy exposure that climbers treasure.

The final pitch is a short and straightforward chimney that leads to the summit, providing a satisfying exhale after the technical traverse. From this vantage point, the panorama is wide and unbroken — the crag’s remote setting offers quiet, expansive views over the Kern River valley and Southern Sierra peaks.

Gear-wise, Airy Interlude requires a solid but simple rack: a single or double set of cams, nothing too large or small. This route rewards good gear placements and encourages thoughtful protection decisions, especially on the traverse pitch where solid anchoring is crucial. The approach to The Witch is rugged but manageable, with clear trails leading into a landscape defined by sharp granite spires and open sky. Climbers are wise to start early to avoid the afternoon sun on the wall, as air temperature swings can affect grip and comfort.

Descending Airy Interlude leads north, following established paths and rappel stations. The descent is straightforward yet demands attention: loose rock near ledges and exposure calls for careful foot placement and steady nerves.

In sum, Airy Interlude offers a genuine trad climbing experience that couples classic crack systems with a memorable traverse, all wrapped in the austere beauty of The Witch. Suited for leaders comfortable in the 5.10a range, this route encourages a pace that balances mindful climbing with awe for the granite’s sharp elegance. Make sure your rack includes cams in the mid-range sizes, double-check your anchor skills, and prepare for a climb that pulses with challenge and reward.

Climber Safety

The traverse pitch involves exposure and requires firm placements on granite that can be abrasive yet solid. Pay attention to sloping ledges for footing, especially when adjusting gear. Descend carefully using established rappel points to avoid loose rock hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the heat on the granite face.

Double-check anchor placements on the traverse pitch for added security.

Wear gloves or tape your hands for the abrasive granite cracks.

Descend north using established rappels; stay alert for loose rock near ledges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade here feels fitting with a solid crux during the traverse pitch, where balance and precise footwork elevate the effort beyond pure physical difficulty. Compared to neighboring routes like Igor Unchained, Airy Interlude presents slightly more sustained transitions but with less continuous technicality, making it accessible yet rewarding for climbers comfortable in this rating tier.

Gear Requirements

Bring a single or double set of cams focusing on mid-range sizes—0.5 and 0.75 Camalots are pivotal for the traverse pitch. No large or small cams are needed. Make sure to have solid anchor gear for the exposed belays.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
traverse pitch
exposed
mid-range cams
southern sierra