"A concentrated test of power and precision, Air B.C. Direct offers 85 feet of relentless sport climbing on Squamish's Petrifying Wall. Perfect for climbers ready to push through steep crimps and tricky mantles without the distraction of a long approach or descent."
Air B.C. Direct stands out as a sharp, intense climb on Petrifying Wall that challenges both your technique and endurance in a concentrated 85 feet. Starting with a small left-facing corner that quickly fades, the route demands a swift transition onto the face where tiny crimps dictate your progress. The route’s character lies in this face climbing — unrelenting, requiring focus and precision as you navigate a blank section that tests your commitment. Just when you think relief awaits, the broken rock at the bulge teases a respite that quickly evaporates as you push on with five more meters of sloping holds and sidepulls, a sequence that calls on core strength and body tension. The finale is an arresting mantle onto a sloping ledge, the crux defined by the absence of handholds and an overhanging bulge pressing down above. It’s a move that feels bold and demanding, summing up the climb’s no-nonsense intensity. Clipping the chains immediately after offers the satisfaction of hard-earned success. This one-pitch route packs a punch and fits perfectly into a day of projecting harder lines in Squamish's sport climbing scene. The rock quality here, while mostly solid, has some broken sections at the bulge that add an element of unpredictability and remind you to stay alert.
Located in the diverse Murrin Park area, Air B.C. Direct benefits from easy access and the classic coastal temperate climate of British Columbia. The wall catches the morning light, offering cooler conditions early on, though it can heat up as the day progresses. A stout rack of about eight quickdraws is sufficient to cover the climb’s bolts, making your rack simple but essential. For anyone stepping up to 5.11d sport climbing, this route offers a compact yet complete training ground that hones finger strength and body positioning while keeping the approach and descent straightforward.
Gear up with sticky shoes and tape up those fingertips — this route’s shallow crimps and slopey holds will reward careful footwork and fingertip conditioning. Timing your ascent for the morning months of late spring to early fall maximizes comfort, avoiding the mid-day sun and wet conditions that can make crimps slick. Scrutinize every clip, and take your time to read the mantle above, which is the key to sending this short but fierce line. The proximity to Squamish means amenities and support are close by, which is ideal if you're committing multiple attempts or pairing this climb with other nearby routes.
In all, Air B.C. Direct is a compelling choice for climbers aiming to sharpen their sport skills with a route that demands power and precision. It’s an honest challenge in a stunning setting that captures the raw coastal spirit without fuss or distractions.
The section near the bulge features some broken rock that could cause loose holds or unstable clips. Stay deliberate in your movements and inspect placement before pulling hard. Avoid climbing after heavy rain to reduce the slickness on crimps.
Start early to catch cooler morning temps and maximize grip on the crimps.
Tape your fingers to protect against sharp edges on the smaller holds.
Watch your feet carefully—precise foot placement on tiny edges is key.
Take extra care clipping near the bulge where the rock quality is uneven.
A rack of approximately eight quickdraws covers the bolts neatly. No additional gear needed, but be ready for sustained clipping efficiency and technical draws due to the broken section near the bulge.
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