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Air Apparent: A Classic Two-Pitch Trad Challenge on Upper Infirmary Slabs

Lyons, Colorado United States
hand crack
flake
multi-pitch
granite
Colorado
moderate difficulty
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Air Apparent
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Air Apparent presents two contrasting pitches of classic Colorado trad climbing: a steep hand crack with a technical traverse and a slender flake offering a delicate finish. Perfect for climbers ready to test crack skills on dependable granite just outside Lyons."

Air Apparent: A Classic Two-Pitch Trad Challenge on Upper Infirmary Slabs

Air Apparent offers an inviting gateway into classic Colorado trad climbing, combining technical hand cracks and confident slab moves over two distinct pitches. Set against the rugged backdrop of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, this route demands steady feet and careful gear placements. The first pitch begins with a gritty introduction — a short stretch of loose, less solid rock that quickly gives way to a steep and committed hand crack carving a line upward. This initial climb requires focus and precision, as you reach for jams that protect your ascent while your hands lock into the rock’s texture. The ledge at the top of the first pitch provides a moment to settle, but the work isn’t over. A leftward traverse of about twenty feet on solid stone transitions you to the belay stance with its 5.9 rating, where mental composure matches the tactical demands.

Pitch two climbs a contrasting line: a slender flake that tests balance and technique at a slightly easier 5.7 grade. The rock here feels more dependable, but the thinness of the flake demands clean movement and thoughtful footwork to keep the rhythm steady. Interestingly, the belay spot beneath this pitch sits just ten feet above the ground, offering an option for climbers seeking a variation. A short section rated 5.8 can shortcut directly to that stance, providing flexible approaches depending on comfort and skill level.

Protection for Air Apparent plays a pivotal role. A traditional rack covers the basics, but bringing additional #1 and #2 Camalots will give you confidence on the steep hand crack of pitch one, where placements are vital for safety and progress. On the second pitch, smaller cams and stoppers fill the gear needs, securing the flake’s less obvious seams. Thanks to these protection options, the route feels suited to climbers comfortable with rack management and crack technique.

The route’s location on the Upper Infirmary Slabs places it in a peaceful, less crowded corner of the St. Vrain Canyons. The approach presents a short walk through forested paths that shadow the canyon rim, with the crisp Colorado air carrying the occasional call of distant birds. From here, the rock’s warm granite surface greets you, its texture both rough and reliable under hand and foot. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for climbing to avoid the midday sun, as the south-facing slabs heat under direct light.

For those planning to climb Air Apparent, footwear with solid edging and sticky rubber will boost your confidence on the hand crack and the delicate flake. Hydration is key, especially in summer months where the dry climate can sap energy quickly. Timing your climb for cooler parts of the day enhances grip and endurance. After topping out, the descent is straightforward—a short walk off down a sloping approach, but stay mindful of loose stones and keep your steps deliberate.

Air Apparent offers an engaging balance of mental challenge and physical control, making it a rewarding addition to any trad climber’s itinerary in the Colorado Front Range. Its blend of solid rock, thoughtful protection, and accessible length means you can savor the adventure without committing to a full day in the mountains, leaving you energized for more in the vibrant climbing enclave near Lyons.

Climber Safety

Be cautious at the start of pitch one, where loose rock patches require careful testing before trusting holds. The ledge traverse can be exposed; maintain good protection and steady focus. Watch for loose stones during descent near the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via shady forest trails to avoid mid-day heat.

Use sticky-soled shoes for both crack jams and slippery slabs.

Carry extra water—the dry air can dehydrate quickly.

Consider starting early or late in the day to enjoy cooler rock temperatures.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Air Apparent’s first pitch holds solid, reflecting the sustained hand crack and tricky traverse. While not overly stiff, the route demands clean technique and confidence on jams. The second pitch’s 5.7 grade offers a gentler finish, making for a balanced overall challenge that feels true to the Front Range’s approachable trad climbs.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers most needs, though bringing an extra #1 and #2 Camalot is advised for secure placements on the steep hand crack pitch one. Smaller cams and stoppers are perfect for protecting the second pitch’s flake.

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Tags

hand crack
flake
multi-pitch
granite
Colorado
moderate difficulty