HomeClimbingAin't No Puppy

Ain't No Puppy: A Raw Trad Challenge in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
crack climbing
exposed ledge
single pitch
hand jams
Colorado trad
flakey rock
5.9
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ain't No Puppy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ain't No Puppy pushes trad climbers into gritty terrain along South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon’s ledges. This 95-foot single pitch blends insecure moves and satisfying crack jams, demanding cautious yet confident climbing."

Ain't No Puppy: A Raw Trad Challenge in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Ain't No Puppy offers a gritty introduction to climbing the rugged walls of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route stretches 95 feet through a blend of textured corners and wide, jam-friendly cracks that test both your technique and mental focus. As you step onto the ledge from the well-tread approach, you quickly realize this climb demands respect—fractured rock and patches of lichen add a layer of unpredictability to the ascent, keeping the experience rooted in raw adventure rather than polished perfection. The climb begins by threading an awkward left corner where the rock feels brittle and holds are often insecure, challenging climbers to piece together moves with a calculated patience. Progressing upwards, the route opens into a wider crack section, offering more reliable jams and a chance to settle into rhythm before facing the bulging overhang with hard-fought, positive jams that reward determination. Protection relies mainly on hand-sized gear with no need for wide cams, but doubling up on pieces is wise given the sporadic rock quality. Anchoring involves placing a large stopper and a first-knuckle-sized cam to secure your belay on the ledge’s edge. This belay station is solid, but rappelling demands attention—a 95-foot lower-off returns directly to the ledge, while a full 115-foot rappel with a 70-meter rope lands you safely on the ground below. Approaching Ain't No Puppy follows the same trails as the nearby Revocation, beginning with a steady hike into the canyon’s quieter spaces before gaining a flat ledge that narrows and drops away beneath your feet, sharpening your sense of exposure and adventure. Timing your ascent for mid-morning offers balanced sun exposure—early enough to avoid midday heat but still welcoming warmth on cooler days. While the climbing holds mixed conditions, the route’s modest 5.9 rating errs on the cautious side and could become a solid 5.9- with some cleanup and more climber traffic. It’s an excellent choice for trad climbers eager to embrace imperfection, polish their crack skills, and step out of the gym’s comfort zone into terrain where every move counts. Whether you’re scouting a new line or testing your gear placements under realistic conditions, Ain't No Puppy delivers an honest push that rewards steady hands and precise footwork. Come prepared for a straightforward yet stimulating adventure where natural challenges and practical climbing knowledge intersect.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and patches of lichen require careful testing of holds throughout the climb, particularly in the initial corner. The exposed ledge approach demands steady footing and attention to footing near the cliff's edge. Always double-check anchor gear before committing to the rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the same trail as Revocation and descend carefully on exposed ledges.

Double up on hand-sized cams to ensure solid protection.

Watch for loose rock and lichen on the lower corner moves—test each hold.

Use a 70-meter rope for a full rappel to the ground to avoid pendulum hazards.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, Ain't No Puppy sits on the softer side of the grade in its wider crack sections, but the lower corner features some awkward, insecure moves that push the technical limits. The rock's uneven quality amplifies the challenge, making it feel harder than a clean 5.9. Those familiar with nearby routes like Revocation will find the commitment similar, but expect less polished placements.

Gear Requirements

No wide gear needed; focus on hand-sized cams and doubles due to rock quality and crack size. Stoppers and smaller nuts protect the belay station.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Ain't No Puppy and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
exposed ledge
single pitch
hand jams
Colorado trad
flakey rock
5.9