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Aguirre Colère de Dieu: Exploring Charlevoix's Bold Trad Line

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
trad crack
dihedral
fixed bolts
single pitch
granite
moderate exposure
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Aguirre Colère de Dieu
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aguirre Colère de Dieu is a measured 80-foot trad climb in Quebec’s Charlevoix region, offering solid crack climbing punctuated by a key upper crux guarded by a fixed bolt. It blends technical gear placements with inviting dihedral moves—an ideal test for trad climbers seeking focused adventure outside Quebec City."

Aguirre Colère de Dieu: Exploring Charlevoix's Bold Trad Line

Aguirre Colère de Dieu challenges climbers with an 80-foot push of bold trad climbing on solid Quebec granite. This route demands focus from the moment you clip the two initial glue-in bolts guarding the corner start. As you settle into the climb, the wall unfolds into a prominent dihedral, inviting steady, thoughtful moves along clean cracks and edges. The rock’s texture is firm and reliable, its roughness seemingly alive beneath your fingertips, offering both friction and just enough edge to advance with confidence. Midway, the dihedral widens, giving room to breathe, while the surrounding forest air drifts softly up the facing wall, carrying the scent of pine and the faint songs of local birds.

The upper crux is guarded by a strategically placed glue-in bolt, set before a striking, squared block aptly nicknamed the “Bible.” This prominent feature is a distinct landmark on the route, a hefty block that feels like a solid shoulder you lean on as you push through the most technical moves of the climb. Secure gear placements are essential here, including traditional cams and nuts, balanced by the rarity of fixed protection along the route. The climb sits just left of the more traveled Pirates de l’air, offering a quieter, more focused experience.

Located in the heart of Lac Long’s granite cliffs within the Charlevoix region, this route embodies the rugged joie de vivre of Quebec climbing. The area’s broad rock faces stand proud against the cool northern skies, rewarding those who venture here with a blend of adventure and commitment. The setting’s relative privacy and natural beauty make it ideal for climbers who appreciate developing their trad skills away from crowded crags.

Approach to Aguirre Colère de Dieu is straightforward, with a well-trodden path leading in from the base area near Quebec City. The climb's moderate length fits neatly into a day trip, though climbers should plan for chilly mornings and potentially damp rock in the early season. Wearing stiff-soled trad shoes will aid in edging and jamming the dihedral, while a standard rack with mid-sized cams and slings is recommended to cover the range of placements required.

This climb’s appeal blends the raw challenge of gear placements with the quiet beauty of its forested surroundings. It demands technical attention without excessive exposure, making it approachable for climbers stepping up to 5.9 trad routes. But despite its moderate rating, the route rewards preparation, steady footwork, and a calm mindset.

For anyone looking to experience Charlevoix’s climbing character, Aguirre Colère de Dieu offers a singular slice of purposeful adventure. The granite listens underneath your hands, the dihedral beckons with rhythmic holds, and the route's positioning leaves you feeling part of an enduring rock story carved into Quebec’s north. Approach it equipped, focus on your placements, and embrace the natural pace of this grounded, raw trad line.

Climber Safety

While solidly protected at key cruxes, the route requires careful gear placement in the main dihedral. The glue-in bolts offer security but avoid relying on them exclusively—placer caution around the big block ‘Bible’ as falls here can lead to pendulum swings if protection is sparse. Watch for damp rock early in the day after rain or overnight moisture.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid moisture on the rock surface, especially in spring and fall.

Bring a rack with cams ranging from small to medium sizes for secure placements in the dihedral.

Wear shoes with stiff soles to support edging along the crack bands.

Expect cooler temperatures in the shade—layer accordingly and hydrate well.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits well with the route’s sustained crack climbing and technical upper crux protected by a single glue-in bolt. The grade feels solid but not overly stiff, providing a well-balanced challenge for intermediate trad climbers familiar with gear placements. Compared to nearby climbs like Pirates de l’air, Aguirre offers a slightly more focused experience with fewer fixed protections, pushing reliance on traditional gear skills.

Gear Requirements

This route requires a full trad rack focusing on mid-size cams and nuts to protect the dihedral sections. Two key glue-in bolts protect more technical moves at the start and near the top crux before the large square block feature called the Bible.

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Tags

trad crack
dihedral
fixed bolts
single pitch
granite
moderate exposure