5.6, Trad
McQuirks Mountain
Canada
"After Midnight on McQuirks Mountain delivers a focused, hand-and-fist crack trad climb that balances approachable difficulty with a pure crack-climbing rhythm. Just one pitch and 100 feet of solid jamming await in this accessible New Brunswick classic."
After Midnight offers an invigorating adventure for trad climbers seeking a straightforward yet rewarding line on McQuirks Mountain’s Main Wall. At just 100 feet and one pitch, this climb invites you into a focused experience where precise crack climbing takes center stage. From the moment you step off the modest tree ledge, the route demands attention to hand and fist jams that gently coax you upward toward the summit.
The climb’s defining feature is its hand-and-fist crack, providing solid jams that engage both technique and patience. The rock feels reliable beneath your hands, with enough variation in crack width to keep your placements interesting along the way. As you ascend, the crack widens in sections, challenging you to adjust your approach, while occasional smooth spots require thoughtful footwork.
Protection is straightforward but essential — a single rack up to 4 inches covers the necessary gear. Because the route can have some run-out sections, doubling up on your #1 through #3 Camalots is a wise strategy to ensure safety and peace of mind. The climb finishes at bolted anchors, offering a secure top-out and descent point.
McQuirks Mountain sits in a quiet stretch of New Brunswick’s wilderness, surrounded by towering forests that rustle softly in the wind. The area’s cool northern climate helps keep the rock dry and crisp, particularly in late spring through early fall, when conditions are prime for climbing.
Accessing the Main Wall is a manageable hike through well-worn trails that wind through mixed conifer and deciduous trees. Approach time is short, making After Midnight an excellent option for a day trip or an afternoon challenge. The mountain’s remote feel is balanced by its accessibility, offering solitude without demanding a strenuous trek to reach the base.
Beyond the climb itself, the environment encourages a tactile connection to the wild, with the crisp calls of birds overhead and the tangible energy of ancient rock beneath your fingers. Whether you’re stepping into crack climbing or looking to add a solid 5.6 trad route to your logbook, After Midnight provides a reliable, engaging experience with a direct focus on technique and rhythm.
For those focused on preparation, layering for changing temperatures and arriving early to secure parking are practical measures. Remember, the rock can be sensitive to moisture, so checking conditions before committing is advisable. With its modest length and accessible protection, this route rewards careful planning with a satisfying climb — a chance to engage fully with the rock and the quiet presence of New Brunswick’s wild heart.
Be aware that some sections require trusting your gear placements to run out slightly, so doubling key cams is important. The rock quality is solid but approach with care as the tree ledge start offers limited staging space. Avoid climbing during or immediately after rain as the crack can retain moisture, making jams less secure.
Start early to find parking and avoid afternoon heat.
Check weather conditions; damp rock can make jams slippery.
Wear flexible climbing shoes to handle crack width variations.
Carry extra cams in the 1 to 3-inch range for optimal protection.
Single rack up to 4 inches required, with bolted anchors at the top. Doubling up on #1 through #3 Camalots is recommended for better protection in run-out sections.
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