African Queen offers a compelling trad climb tucked within Joshua Tree’s rugged splendor, inviting climbers to engage with both its technical challenges and stunning desert landscape. Beginning by sharing the initial moves of the classic Canadian Driftwood route, the climb quickly branches off into a sharply left-leaning dihedral. This feature guides you toward a horizontal roof crack that demands precise liebacking, testing your technique at a sustained 5.10 difficulty. As you hand traverse left from the roof, you enter a deep flare with a backhand crack—a perfect setup for crack gear placements and a moment to settle your nerves as you gain height. A short push beyond reveals a comfortable ledge on the left, offering a brief respite and incredible views of the sun-bleached rock faces around you.

The climb continues upward through a straight-in crack, negotiating a small, awkward roof rated around 5.9+. This section requires deliberate footwork, steady body positioning, and careful protection placement to maintain control. The 210 feet of climbing unfold over two pitches that blend technical finger and hand cracks with a few wider jams—making gear sizing from micro to 3-inch nuts and cams essential. The rock itself feels firm but occasionally textured, providing enough friction to keep footholds secure even when the sun beats down.

Arriving at the summit, climbers are rewarded not only with a sense of accomplishment but with panoramic views of Indian Cove’s desert floor, where winds hum through boulders and creosote bushes. The climb moves through sun-exposed walls best tackled in cooler months or early mornings to avoid overheating. Approaches are moderate, crossing sandy trails lined with brittle grasses and iconic Joshua trees that seem to reach upward as if encouraging your ascent.

For those planning their climb, bring sturdy shoes designed for crack climbing and gear optimized for traditional placements. Hydration is crucial; the dry air and effort will deplete your reserves faster than expected. African Queen is perfect for climbers comfortable at 5.10a who want to combine solid crack climbing beta with an immersive experience in the distinctive desert setting of Joshua Tree National Park.