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Ace of Spades Climb at White Cliffs of Dover

Joshua Tree, California United States
hand crack
trad
single pitch
desert granite
clean rock
bolted anchor
Joshua Tree
5.9
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ace of Spades
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ace of Spades offers a thrilling trad climb on the left side of White Cliffs of Dover, blending clean crack climbing with steady protection on steep hand jams. Perfect for climbers seeking a solid 5.9 crack test in Joshua Tree’s iconic desert granite."

Ace of Spades Climb at White Cliffs of Dover

Ace of Spades carves a striking line through the White Cliffs of Dover’s left wall, offering climbers a robust introduction to Joshua Tree’s signature granite. This 80-foot, single-pitch trad route begins by sharing the first moves with the iconic Popular Mechanics, ascending a perfectly clean, right-facing dihedral that demands precise hand jams and calm judgment. About a third up the route, climbers veer left into an inviting trio of cracks that climb the face with steady verticality and excellent protection opportunities. The climb challenges your technique with steep hand jams that reward persistence and body positioning, demanding a careful balance between power and finesse.

Towering above Quail Springs, the White Cliffs stand as a quiet giant in this vast desert wilderness, their sun-baked slabs radiating warmth while the brittle desert air keeps your focus sharp. The area’s sparse vegetation leans into the rock’s vast granite canvas, where occasional breezes ruffle sagebrush and the cacophony of distant joshua trees swaying catches your ear. Ace of Spades invites ascents during the crisp fall and spring months when temperatures drop into the comfortable range, avoiding the excessive heat that crawls over the rock in summer.

Approach the route from the Quail Springs trailhead, a manageable 20-minute walk over sandy trails with modest elevation change. The path cuts through sprawling desert brush before reaching the cliffs’ base where the White Cliffs’ vertical edges immediately impress. Bring plenty of water—Joshua Tree’s desert environment doesn’t forgive careless hydration—and wear sticky rubber shoes designed for cracks and smooth rock. The bolted anchor at the top simplifies descent, making rappelling straightforward for climbers of all experience levels.

Protection on Ace of Spades is friendly to trad gear: a standard rack ranging from thin cams to three-inch sizes covers the line well. Placements run solid in the clean cracks, though a measured approach to gear placement will ensure confidence on the steeper sections. The bolted rap station, anchored with 3/8" bolts, offers a secure finish point.

For those drawn to Popular Mechanics but eager for a slightly different path, Ace of Spades provides a compelling alternative that blends familiar moves with fresh challenge. The climb’s hand jams feel aggressive but fair, its exposure moderate, and the quality of rock nearly impeccable. With 204 votes reflecting a solid popularity among the climbing community, it stands as a dependable test of crack climbing fundamentals with the unforgettable backdrop of one of Southern California’s most scenic rock faces.

Whether you’re polishing your crack technique or simply searching for a classic Joshua Tree experience with a bit of variety, Ace of Spades delivers. Plan your outing with care, timing your climb for cooler times of year and packing essential hydration and gear. Step onto the rock, feel the desert sun, and let the cracks guide your ascent up this unmistakable desert wall.

Climber Safety

While the rock quality is excellent, guard against loose gravel near the base. The bolted anchor is reliable, but always double-check rappel gear. Avoid climbing during extreme heat to prevent dehydration and exhaustion.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Plan climbs during fall or spring to avoid Joshua Tree’s intense summer heat.

Hydrate well before and during your approach; desert hydration is critical.

Wear sticky rubber shoes optimized for crack climbing and smooth granite.

The approach from Quail Springs trailhead takes about 20 minutes over mostly flat sandy terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating aligns well with the route’s challenge level, feeling just right for solid crack climbers. The crux comes in sustained hand jams on steep, slightly off-vertical sections, with protection that never feels sparse but requires attentiveness. Compared to Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades offers a slightly tougher hand jam focus, making it a great progression on a familiar line.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack covering thin cams to 3-inch pieces; placement is straightforward in the clean dihedral cracks. Fixed 3/8" bolts anchor the rappel station at the top.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
single pitch
desert granite
clean rock
bolted anchor
Joshua Tree
5.9