"AC/DC is a straightforward yet engaging single-pitch trad climb on the Outward Bound Slab, featuring a series of clean cracks and a final chimney that delivers steady, technical movement in Joshua Tree’s iconic Wonderland of Rocks."
AC/DC offers an inviting introduction to trad climbing within Joshua Tree’s rugged Wonderland of Rocks. This single-pitch route weaves through clean cracks etched into the Outward Bound Slab, presenting a perfect blend of technical moves and approachable length. The climb begins with a distinctive pillar leaning against solid granite, immediately engaging your hands and feet on textured rock that demands focus. From here, twin cracks open up on the wall, converging to form a continuous crack that carries you upward to the summit. The granite’s coarse feel invites steady jamming and smearing, challenging climbers to find balance between power and finesse. As you finish, the last ten feet ease into a fourth-class chimney—a welcome relief after the sustained crack sequence, but one that still rewards careful footwork and body positioning.
This climb sits within the famed Wonderland of Rocks, an area famous for its sunlit slabs and intricate crack systems. The approach leads through a dry, desert landscape where Joshua trees reach skyward, casting long shadows over dusty boulders and sand. Early morning is a superb time to start, as the temperature remains cool and the granite surfaces still awake from night’s chill. Gear placement is straightforward, relying on doubles and singles of cams ranging from small to large sizes. The protection compliments the climb’s moderate difficulty, awarding confidence without overburdening you with excessive rack weight.
When it’s time to descend, the gully on the climber’s left provides a reliable and simple scramble back to the base, dropping you exactly where you began. This efficient loop avoids the need for ropes on descent, making AC/DC a great choice for those balancing multiple climbs in a day. Though rated 5.8, the route’s sustained crack work grants a slightly adventurous edge, ideal for climbers developing technique or seasoned adventurers wanting a solid, peaceful route in a desert setting.
Joshua Tree’s Outward Bound Slab area demands respect for the desert environment—water is sparse and sun is unrelenting by mid-day. Adequate hydration, sturdy shoes with stiff soles for edging, and sun protection are essential. Above all, AC/DC invites you into a classic Joshua Tree experience where granite, sky, and grit combine for climbing that’s as rewarding as it is accessible.
The gully descent is straightforward but can be loose in spots—stay attentive on loose rock. The chimney section requires careful foot placement as the rock can be abrasive, so avoid slipping. Due to desert conditions, heat exhaustion is a risk; carry ample water and plan climbs early or late in the day.
Start early in the day to avoid the desert heat and strong sun exposure.
Bring a rack heavy on cams between sizes 1 to 4 for reliable placements in the varied crack widths.
The approach is a short walk from the North Wonderland trailhead; keep an eye out for cairns marking the climbing access.
Descend via the gully to climber's left to return smoothly to the base without needing ropes.
A solid rack of cams from small to large (#1 to #4 BD cams recommended) and nuts will protect the entire route comfortably. Anchor gear available at the top for safe descent.
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