"Access Granite carves a direct line up a clean finger crack on the Hex Wall, offering climbers a focused trad experience with solid pro and a varied route. Ideal for those sharpening crack skills, this single-pitch climb opens to rewarding views and a classic New Brunswick granite texture."
Access Granite offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to trad climbing on the rugged cliffs of Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch route lines up right at a distinct finger crack hugging the arête, immediately inviting climbers into a tactile dance with the rock. The crack demands precise finger placements, encouraging measured confidence as you push upward. Midway through, you'll reach a small ledge that serves as a pivotal moment—not just for a breath but for route choice. From here, you can opt to tackle a corner chimney or flirt with the slabby face, each providing a slightly different rhythm and feel to the ascent.
Beyond the ledge, a larger, more pronounced crack appears on a slab angled toward the summit. This final section calls for steady footwork balanced with strategic hand jams. The rock, cool to the touch and textured with subtle nicks and edges, offers reliable holds but rewards careful attention. As you claim the top, the effort transitions into satisfaction — the route delivers access to the summit of Welcome to Welsford, revealing crisp views of the surrounding forested hills and distant ridges.
From a pragmatic perspective, this climb is a perfect primer for those building their crack-climbing skills or anyone eager to explore local granite with natural, solid protection. Bringing a well-rounded rack is essential; the various crack widths test your gear selection and placement finesse. The rock quality, while generally sound, asks for vigilance where flakes occasionally loosen underfoot.
The approach to the cliff is a pleasant hike over mixed terrain that moves through stands of fir and spruce, their needles soft underfoot and scenting the air with pine. The trail is well-marked, making navigation straightforward, but given the wilderness feel, carrying a map or GPS is wise. Early morning or late afternoon offers the best light and cooler temperatures, ensuring a comfortable climb without harsh sun glare or overheating. Staying hydrated pays off here—carry ample water, especially during summer’s peak.
Overall, Access Granite stands as a manageable yet satisfying route. It bridges practical skill-building with a taste of the wild beauty that defines the Hex Wall area. Whether you’re refining your crack technique or simply soaking in the crisp air and forested vistas, this climb offers a spirited outing with solid grounding in safety and preparation.
While protection is generally excellent, some sections feature loose flakes and less stable edges—particularly on the approach to the top ledge. Maintain steady placements and test handholds before fully committing. Seasonal moss or moisture can make slab sections slick, so choose your climbing day accordingly.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and warm rock.
Double-check all gear placements on the finger crack section for security.
Bring plenty of water—there's no reliable water source on the approach.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for the slab and face sections.
A varied rack spanning from small cams suited for finger cracks to larger pieces for the wider crack near the top is required. Reliable placements abound but bring a full trad set to handle the range of crack sizes along the route.
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