"AC-DC is a sharp, concentrated 60-foot trad climb on Boulder’s Sunset Wall that demands precise footwork and attentive gear placement. Ideal for climbers looking to hone their 5.9 skills while enjoying classic Flatirons exposure and views."
AC-DC offers a focused, gritty trad experience on the often overlooked South aspect of Boulder’s Sunset Wall in the Flatirons. While it may not be new or heavily documented, this 60-foot, single-pitch route demands your full attention, rewarding steady movement and calculated gear placements. Start perched at the base, facing a sharp set of vertical flakes inviting hand jams and precise footwork. The rock’s texture calls for confident smears and stemming as you move right, transitioning onto a right-leaning crack that guides you into the heart of the climb. Here, a soft-iron pin hints at the crux—delicate moves force you to read the line carefully before reaching a more secure angle clip. The crux pitches into sustained moves at a solid 5.9, where the crack opens, offering better protection and a chance to settle into a stable stance. Continue upward toward a ledge guarded by an old dead tree, its worn webbing a relic not to be trusted. To set up a belay, sidestep south along the ledge to a live tree, rigged with a self-redundant anchor and locking-binering system, offering a safe and reliable point for your rope work.
This climb demands a light rack with stoppers and cams to supplement the two fixed pins: the lower, soft-iron staple and the upper, well-placed angle piece. The route’s nature puts you on alert—while not overly bold if you’re methodical with gear, the pitch feels ‘heads up’ enough to sharpen your concentration. The surrounding Flatirons area is defined by exposed sandstone formations with sweeping views of Boulder and the foothills beyond, motivating every clip and move. While not the longest or most complex climb, AC-DC’s challenge is in its precision and the intimate connection it requires between climber and rock.
Timing your climb is best during spring and fall when the Flatirons avoid extreme temperatures and enjoy steady comfort beneath crisp skies. The rock holds well in dry conditions, but a swiftly rising afternoon sun heats the face fast—aim for morning starts. Approaching the climb involves a short hike from the well-marked Flatirons trails; terrain is manageable but expect some moderate exposure near the base and a brushy walk to the anchor ledge.
When planning your trip, bring footwear with sticky rubber for smears on slightly gritty sandstone and hydration for the exposed approach, particularly in warmer months. Though only one pitch, this route teaches important lessons in gear placement and route reading, perfect for trad climbers seeking a respectable 5.9 test to sharpen their skills while soaking up iconic Flatirons views. Descending involves a single rappel from the tree anchor; double-check the webbing and bring your own backup cords to ensure safety.
AC-DC is a quiet gem that rewards respect and focus, an accessible but demanding option for climbers aiming to connect with Boulder’s trad offerings beyond the more crowded classics. Whether scaling the flakes, navigating the crack, or setting gear with care, this climb leaves you feeling grounded and ready for the next challenge.
The dead tree on the upper ledge features old webbing that is unreliable; always move south to the live tree equipped with a certified self-redundant anchor for belaying or rappelling. Be mindful of loose rock near the flakes and the potential for sun exposure during midday. Approach terrain includes some brush and loose footing—proceed carefully.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the sandstone.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for confident smears on vertical flakes.
Double-check the retired webbing on the dead tree; don’t rely on it for anchors.
Bring backup cord for rappelling from the live tree anchor.
Bring a light rack of stoppers and cams to back up the two fixed pins—a soft-iron staple near the start and a solid angle pin higher up. The gear placements require focus but provide solid protection when done right. Belay and rappel from the live tree on the ledge south of the dead tree anchor.
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