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Abracadabra: A Classic Trad Climb in Oak Creek Canyon

Westcliffe, Colorado United States
trad
multi-pitch
bulge
huecos
blocky terrain
oak creek canyon
wet mountains
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Abracadabra
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Abracadabra invites climbers on a classic three-pitch trad adventure through rugged granite features in Oak Creek Canyon. Its mix of bulges, groove moves, and ledge traverses offers a balanced challenge that rewards precise gear placements and steady technique."

Abracadabra: A Classic Trad Climb in Oak Creek Canyon

Set against the rugged beauty of Tanner Dome, Abracadabra offers a three-pitch trad climb that challenges you with varied terrain and striking Colorado rock. This 250-foot route feels like a natural journey through the landscape — starting with a demanding bulge and a patch of large huecos on the first pitch that tests both technique and nerves. Moving right around a large block requires steady footwork and a bit of gingerly finesse before you reach a ledge and push straight up through a short groove to a major boulder-strewn platform. The proximity to a large, sturdy tree on this ledge offers a reassuring landmark and belay spot after pitching 120 feet at a 5.9 grade.

Pitch two eases somewhat, shifting you left then ascending a slanting break. This section invites a more measured approach, following a right-angled move along the break before jogging up a ramp heading leftward. The route gains exposure here, with a face climb that steepens, where a subtle rightward move opens the way to a broad ledge for another comfortable belay (95 feet at 5.7). This pitch balances fun with accessibility, offering brief rests and a chance to take in the high-country atmosphere of Oak Creek Canyon.

The final pitch is a short but satisfying finish, with a brief dihedral section that requires solid foot placement and body tension. From here, the route snakes through ledges and blocks, winding upward to the summit in a controlled 30-foot climb at 5.7. The rock has character throughout—blocks and boulders give the route texture and require thoughtful gear placements.

Protection is well-supported on Abracadabra, with a need for cams ranging from tiny sizes to #4 Camalots and a good selection of nuts and RPs. Shoulder-length slings come in handy for longer runners and tricky placements around the blocky features. Access to the start is straightforward, with a solid approach that traverses moderate terrain typical of The Wet Mountains region. The climb sits within a wild but accessible stretch of Colorado’s Oak Creek Canyon, offering expansive views and a sense of solitude away from the busier front-range crags.

Abracadabra’s aspect faces south-east, catching morning light and cooling afternoon shade, making spring and fall the best climbing seasons. Summer afternoons can get warm but a fresh breeze off the canyon can refresh the effort. While the route demands respect for its steeper sections, it rewards focused climbers with a route that blends modest commitment with interesting technical moves and a satisfying finish.

Descent involves a careful walk-off along a rocky talus slope leading back to the trailhead. Attention to footing is essential, especially when tired after the last moves. Overall, Abracadabra stands as a compelling choice for climbers aiming to stretch their trad skills on varied terrain and enjoy the quiet strength of Oak Creek Canyon’s distinct granite formations.

Climber Safety

Be cautious around the large block on pitch one; it requires careful movement and stabilizing gear. The talus descent is loose and steep in places—take your time and use trekking poles if available.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to enjoy cooler morning light on the climb.

Bring extra slings for longer runners and tricky placements.

Double-check your nuts and cams due to uneven blocky sections.

Plan descent carefully; talus footing can be loose and unstable.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels accurate for pitch one’s bulge and groove sequence, which delivers a sustained challenge without pushing into 5.10 territory. Pitches two and three drop to 5.7, providing a manageable cooldown with some fun face climbing. The overall route demands solid gear placement skills and confident footwork, making it a reliable middle-grade trad climb compared to other Wet Mountains routes.

Gear Requirements

Two sets of cams from micro to 2 inches, plus one of each from 2 inches to #4 Camalot; a variety of nuts including RPs; shoulder-length slings recommended for around blocks and extended placements.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
bulge
huecos
blocky terrain
oak creek canyon
wet mountains