"Above All Splendour is a focused two-pitch trad climb in Strathcona Provincial Park combining steady slab moves with a crux overhang. Ideal for climbers seeking alpine solitude with moderate technical challenge on Vancouver Island’s distinctive granite."
Above All Splendour offers a refreshing blend of alpine exposure and technical trad climbing set against the rugged backdrop of Strathcona Provincial Park on Vancouver Island. This route commands attention not by sheer scale but by its focused intensity across two pitches stretching just over 120 feet. From the moment your fingers find their first nuts low on the slab, the climb invites a deliberate approach—balancing security with bold moves. The initial section requires placing two to three nuts in solid, thoughtful placements before clipping into the well-established rap anchors on a spacious belay ledge. This ledge serves as a natural rest point, where the setting sun often glints off the surrounding rock, warming you during brief pauses.
Continuing upward, the slabs tilt gently underfoot, guiding your path toward a distinctive handline ledge where attentive footwork and steady balance come into play. The rock here carries the character of the island’s weathered granite—gritty yet surprisingly comfortable, holding chalk and friction well even in damp conditions.
The final section tests your composure as you tackle the classic overhangs, a sequence requiring precise body positioning and confident gear placements. As you reach the summit, the rap anchors provide secure points to prepare for descent while offering expansive views over Crest Creek and deeper into the wilderness of this protected park.
This climb's alpine nature demands respect for changing weather and careful planning. Early starts are recommended to avoid afternoon rain or strong coastal winds. Boots and sturdy shoes are essential for the modest but occasionally slippery approach trail that winds through mixed forest and open rocky terrain. A lightweight rack centered on small nuts proves sufficient here, yet an oppositional anchor at the first belay is a wise precaution should a fall occur near the overhang.
Above All Splendour is a rewarding endeavor for trad climbers looking to experience the wild beauty of Vancouver Island alongside moderate technical challenges. The route’s compact footprint belies its thoughtful design—each move requiring full attention accompanied by the sharp breeze and distant calls of the surrounding forest, making this climb both a physical and mental engagement. For climbers eager to blend alpine tranquility with skill-testing sequences, this route presents a memorable day out punctuated with panoramic scenery and disciplined climbing flow.
The approach involves uneven footing on mixed rock and forest floor; watch for slippery moss patches when wet. Falling near the overhang can be severe, so setting an oppositional anchor at the first belay is highly recommended to reduce swing risk.
Begin early to avoid afternoon coastal weather shifts.
Wear shoes with solid grip; the approach trail involves mixed rocky and forested terrain.
Pack a rack focused on small nuts; no cams necessary.
Be prepared with an oppositional anchor setup at the first belay for added security.
Start with two to three nuts placed low on the slab before clipping into the first belay ledge anchors. Rap anchors secure both belays; consider adding an oppositional anchor at the first belay to mitigate risk above the overhang.
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