HomeClimbingAbendrot

Abendrot: Crack Climbing Challenge at Rattlesnake Point

Milton, Ontario Canada
finger crack
hand crack
slippery rock
flaky holds
trad gear
glue-in anchors
single pitch
low grade
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Abendrot
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Abendrot is a polished finger and hand crack that demands careful gear placement and precise jamming on slippery rock. This 70-foot trad route at Rattlesnake Point offers an accessible challenge with secure protection and a peaceful wilderness backdrop."

Abendrot: Crack Climbing Challenge at Rattlesnake Point

Abendrot presents a compelling finger to hand crack climb that demands both technical finesse and patience. Set against the rugged face of the Main Wall at Rattlesnake Point, this 70-foot single pitch winds upward through a series of well-defined flakes and blocks that offer occasional rests, but beware — the crack’s polished surface challenges your jamming technique and turns footholds into slippery puzzles. The rock here speaks with a slick voice, especially on damp days when trails of mud and dried dirt coat the holds, urging climbers to tread carefully. Despite its modest 5.6 rating, Abendrot delivers a route that tests your precision and adaptability more than raw strength. Gear placements feel secure but require attention as the crack’s uneven shape demands thoughtful selection between cams and passive protection. The climb feels steady and measured, a perfect outing for trad climbers aiming to sharpen their crack skills in a peaceful setting just outside of Ontario. The surrounding escarpment offers a quiet wilderness frame dotted with the quiet noise of wind in the trees and distant calls of local wildlife. Planning your ascent involves bringing a complete rack to handle the variety of placements, as well as extra cord for extending anchors due to glue-in bolts set just back from the cliff edge. The approach from the parking area is straightforward, with a solid trail leading to the base through mixed forest and light underbrush, taking approximately 15 minutes. Timing your climb for mid-morning or afternoon is ideal, giving you the sun necessary to dry the rock after any rain but avoiding the hottest periods of the day. Descending is accomplished easily by rappelling from the fixed anchors, though extension is necessary to avoid rope drag and preserve anchor integrity. Abendrot is a quiet yet precise introduction to technical crack climbing challenges, inviting climbers to focus on skillful movement and thoughtful gear choices over pure athleticism.

Climber Safety

The polished nature of the crack combined with possible mud on rainy days makes footing insecure. Extra caution on placements is advised, as some cracks can be irregular or shallow. The top anchors are set back about a meter from the edge; use extended slings to avoid rope drag and protect your rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach on foot via the main trail through mixed hardwood forest, allow 15 minutes from parking.

Avoid climbing directly after rain as mud and dirt clog holds and increase slipping risk.

Carry extra slings or a long cord to extend top anchors for comfortable rappels.

Mid-morning to afternoon is best for sun exposure but watch for rapid weather changes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Though listed as a 5.6, Abendrot’s polished crack and slippery feet can push the effort higher than expected, especially for those less experienced with delicate jamming. The grade feels on the softer side, but the technical demands create a distinct crux of balance and gear judgment that makes this climb memorable. Comparatively, it is a bit more polished and sustained than other local 5.6 cracks, requiring steady technique rather than brute force.

Gear Requirements

Requires a full trad rack suited for variable cam sizes and a good array of passive protection. Crack irregularities make placement challenging, but the natural constrictions allow for reliable passive gear. Glue-in bolts top out the cliff for anchored rap, and bring extended slings or cord for anchors set away from the edge.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
slippery rock
flaky holds
trad gear
glue-in anchors
single pitch
low grade