"Abandonment Issues tests climbers with a steep, juggy overhang and well-placed bolts, delivering one of the best single-pitch 5.10 climbs in Land Of The Lost. A short, intense sport route that challenges power and precision on solid California coastal rock."
Abandonment Issues at Far Out Wall in California offers a thrilling encounter with the raw edge of sport climbing on the Redwood Coast. This 45-foot route strikes immediately with a steep, overhanging start that demands commitment and reach, featuring large jugs and powerful moves throughout. Originally, only the upper section was bolted, leaving the lower half untouched—until a local climber stepped in to complete the route, giving it a full bolted life and earning it a reputation as one of the top climbs in the Land Of The Lost area.
The climb begins with an explosive, steep bulge that challenges your endurance and precision. The holds are big but spaced, making each clip a calculated move. Starting with a couple of long clips, using slings to extend the bolts is recommended to ease rope drag and maintain smooth flow. As you press upward, the route transitions into more technical moves, offering a balanced mix of power and finesse typical of the 5.10a grade, though consensus among climbers ranges between 5.9 and 5.10b.
The rock’s texture on Far Out Wall feels solid, with bolts placed to protect a fall without sacrificing the route’s adventurous spirit. Chains and a lower-off station wait at the top, ensuring a secure finish for this single-pitch aspiration. The surrounding Land Of The Lost area is rugged and peaceful, with coastal forests framing the climbing zones, offering a welcome respite after the burn of the ascent.
If you plan this climb, timing your day to avoid the harsh midday sun helps, as Far Out Wall faces west and heats up as afternoon progresses. Early morning or late afternoon climbs provide pleasant conditions and softer lighting on the rock, enhancing visibility and grip. Footwear with sticky rubber will serve well on the overhang’s sloping holds, while a moderate chalk supply can keep your hands dry through the demanding moves.
Approaching the route involves a straightforward path from the main trail in Redwood Coast climbing sectors, with the GPS coordinates placing you in a quiet pocket of the wall system. The approach trail is steady and well-defined, cutting through stately coastal trees that hush the soundscape except for the occasional breeze or bird call.
Whether you’re sharpening sport climbing skills or looking for a memorable 5.10a challenge on the California coast, Abandonment Issues combines physicality and smart protection to reward boldness. With solid bolts, a short but intense pitch, and a location that feels both remote and accessible, it stands out as a must-try climb for any visiting climber in the region.
Watch for the long initial clips—using slings to extend bolts helps reduce rope drag and fall factor. The rock is solid, but falls over the first two bolts could be pendulum-like if rope drag is excessive. Approach with caution and clip deliberately.
Use slings to extend the first two bolts to minimize rope drag on the steep overhang.
Plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the wall’s intense west-facing sun.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to handle slippery pockets and big jugs on the overhang.
Bring moderate chalk supply to keep hands dry through sustained powerful moves.
Five bolts protect the route, finished with chains and a lower-off. Bring slings to extend the first two clips to reduce rope drag and maintain fluid movement.
Upload your photos of Abandonment Issues and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.