"Abandonment is a straightforward yet engaging trad climb in Boulder Canyon’s vibrant Bihedral Area, offering a single-pitch experience that tests both gear placement and route reading. With moderate moves on solid rock and a nuanced finish along a quartz dike, it’s an ideal choice for trad climbers stepping into the 5.8 territory."
Abandonment stands as a modest yet rewarding trad climb tucked within the rugged terrain of Boulder Canyon’s Bihedral Area, part of the broader expanse known as The Riviera. This single-pitch route, stretching 60 feet, invites climbers into a hands-on experience where natural protection and careful movement come together under an open Colorado sky. The route starts a short distance from the left edge of the wall, marked by two distinct black streaks that frame the path upwards and slightly to the right. As you push past these dark bands, the rock takes on a confident challenge, offering edges aligned along subtle features and a quartz dike that invites route variation towards the anchor.
The ascent begins with four fixed bolts that provide reassuring security but soon shifts into a more traditional style requiring precise gear placements. After these bolts end around the halfway point, climbers confident in their gear skills will find small nuts and the occasional yellow Alien essential for safe progression. The shared two-bolt anchor offers options: the straightforward finish above or a slight leftward traverse hitting the quartz dike for a lower but equally accessible belay station.
This climb fits perfectly for those building trad confidence without stepping into aggressive grades. Rated 5.8, it strikes a balance between straightforward holds and the necessity for thoughtful protection, making it a favorite for climbers looking to refine their rack management alongside solid movement on vertical, somewhat textured rock.
Boulder Canyon’s dry, stable rock and moderate elevation combine to provide consistent climbing conditions through spring, summer, and fall. The sun illuminates the face in the morning, making early starts ideal to avoid the heat that builds in the afternoon. Approach trails are well-trodden but still rugged enough to make each step part of the outdoor adventure — a gentle reminder that reaching the base is as much a mental preparation as the climb itself.
For climbers planning their visit, gear up with a rack that complements the route’s mixed bolt and gear protection. Bring a small-to-medium set of nuts, a few cams including a yellow Alien or equivalent small cam, and be ready to place smoothly on angles where bolts are absent. Footwear with firm edging capabilities helps tackle the subtle features and quartz band, while hydration and sun protection are necessary given the exposure and altitude.
Abandonment is a step into authentic trad trad climbing at Boulder Canyon—a route where the rock’s history and weathered face quietly guide every move. It demands respect, attention, and rewards a steady approach with a climb that feels both accessible and satisfying.
The climb transitions from bolts to gear placements mid-route; check all pro for secure placement and carry nuts small enough to fit narrower cracks. The approach trail is rocky and uneven, so proper footwear on the hike in is essential to avoid twisted ankles.
Start early to climb in morning sun and avoid afternoon heat.
Prepare a rack with small nuts and a yellow Alien or equivalent small cam.
Wear shoes with precise edging for subtle holds and quartz sections.
Approach on established but uneven trails—allow about 20 minutes from parking.
The route begins with four fixed bolts for protection before transitioning to small nuts and a yellow Alien cam placed on natural features beyond the bolts. A two-bolt anchor is shared with the adjacent route, offering flexibility for belay positions.
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