"A Wish Granted stands as the first bolted sport route on Quadra Island’s Chinese Mountains, blending solid rock with distinctive features. Its 75-foot pitch offers a compact, technical journey marked by a comforting mix of face climbing and shallow corners."
Standing on the rugged cliffs of Quadra Island, the climb known as A Wish Granted commands attention—not just for its pioneering status as the first bolted sport route in the Chinese Mountains, but for the distinctive character etched into its steep, weathered rock. The route begins deceptively calm behind a lone pine tree, where climbers find their foothold on a diagonal ledge, setting off along a sharply angled rib that guides hands and feet toward a small, sheltered alcove. This introduction already signals the climb’s blend of technical face moves and subtle features.
From the alcove, the wall transforms, pushing climbers into a face climb that demands precise balance and careful gear management. The ascent culminates in a compelling bulge, a modest overhang that tests power and foot placement before granting passage to two gently stepped, left-facing corners. These corners feel like the route’s signature—shallow yet requiring steady, deliberate movement to maintain momentum and conserve energy for the finish.
Despite its modest length of 75 feet, A Wish Granted feels packed with variety; it’s a compact adventure that offers both physical and mental engagement. The rock itself, firm and textured, invites steady smears and holds that reward sensitivity over brute strength. Protection is straightforward: five well-placed bolts guide climbers securely from start to anchor, culminating at a rappel ring ready for descent.
Approaching the climb involves a moderate trek through forested terrain characteristic of the South Peak Crags, with expansive views opening as the trail rises to the Great Wall Complex. The area’s coastal climate keeps the rock cool and generally excellent for climbing during the spring to early fall months, while occasional marine breezes push away stagnant humidity.
For the climber preparing to tackle A Wish Granted, footwear with sticky rubber and moderate stiffness is essential to negotiate the varied face and corners. Hydration is key as the approach can tease out the lungs, and a light jacket helps with variable weather near the coast. Early morning starts are ideal, allowing climbers to beat the sun drenching the South Face, which tends to warm quickly and alter the grip slightly.
This route blends adventure and pragmatism: a historic marker and an engaging, stand-alone challenge. It’s a must-try for climbers seeking a slice of Vancouver Island’s robust outdoor climbing scene with a straightforward yet satisfying sport climb experience.
While the bolts are dependable, the approach features uneven forest terrain including loose gravel in spots. Pay attention to footing during the trek in and remain cautious at the belay ledge, keeping gear anchored securely to prevent accidental drop-offs.
Start early to avoid the steep sun hitting the South Face in the afternoon.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes with moderate stiffness for optimal friction.
Carry water and a light windbreaker as coastal weather can shift unexpectedly.
Approach trail involves moderate elevation gain—allow extra time for scouting.
The climb is secured by five bolts leading to a rappel ring at the anchor. Clip carefully through the bolts to maintain rope drag and ensure a smooth pull on the rope during descent.
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