HomeClimbingA Warm and Sultry Evening

A Warm and Sultry Evening

Welsford, Canada
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
hand crack
top bolted anchor
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tackle one of Cochrane Lane’s standout 5.9 trad routes, blending technical finger cracks with varied holds on a single pitch. Ideal for climbers honing crack skills, this route delivers solid protection and a rewarding finish at a bolted anchor."

A Warm and Sultry Evening

At Cochrane Lane’s Minkey Wall, A Warm and Sultry Evening stands out as a go-to 5.9 trad climb that blends approachable moves with a subtly challenging sequence. This single pitch, spanning roughly 100 feet, rolls upward through varied rock features that demand both technique and a feel for balance. You’ll start by navigating a slightly awkward mini ramp or opting for a smoother approach just left of it, leading you to a sturdy crack and a comfortable ledge — a natural foothold that seems to invite a moment’s pause.

From this stance, the climb asks you to veer right, edging about seven feet into a finger crack. Here, the rock’s personality shifts: horizontal breaks tease your grip before rewarding you with a vertical stretch that tests finger strength and precision. As the difficulty ramps up, reaching right secures a blocky ledge that offers a solid hold amid the increasingly technical terrain. The final stretch asks you to step back left into a crack that ascends cleanly to the summit, lined with the reassuring presence of a tree outfitted with tat and a recently installed bolted anchor.

Cochrane Lane Cliffs, located near the quiet town of Welsford, New Brunswick, provide a rugged setting where granite walls rise sharply against the woodland backdrop. The area’s cool breezes stir the pine branches and sometimes carry the faint scent of damp earth, especially in the early morning or after a summer rain. As you climb, you’re connected physically and mentally to the rock’s raw texture, responding to its angles and edges with deliberate moves.

This route is a rewarding outing for climbers comfortable with trad placements and looking to polish their crack climbing skills. The standard rack covers the protection needs well, but expect to stake gear carefully, especially along the finger crack section where placements can feel delicate under stress. The newly bolted anchor simplifies the top-out, making the descent safer and more straightforward.

For practical planning, approach the wall from the Welsford access trail, which cuts through forested terrain with well-worn paths. The climb sees best conditions in late spring through early fall, avoiding the chill and rain that characterize New Brunswick’s winters. Early morning climbs can catch the wall in shade, providing relief on hotter days, while afternoon sessions reward with glowing rock warmed by lingering sun.

A Warm and Sultry Evening is not just a climb; it’s an invitation to engage with a stretch of rock that tests your focus, patience, and skill. Whether you’re refining your crack technique or seeking a consistent 5.9 trad challenge, this route offers a balanced combination of movement, protection, and setting, ensuring a satisfying and memorable ascent.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally straightforward, placements within the finger crack require deliberate attention to ensure security. The ledge at the crux offers a brief rest but watch footing as the rock can be uneven. Always confirm the integrity of the bolted anchor before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat on the wall during summer afternoons.

Bring cams sized for finger cracks to protect the crux section effectively.

Check the top anchor carefully before rappelling, as it includes a recent bolted anchor.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability to navigate slabby sections near the mini ramp.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, A Warm and Sultry Evening feels true to grade with a subtle increase in difficulty near the upper finger crack. The crux is manageable but demands precise footwork and confident jam placements. Compared to other Cochrane Lane climbs, it strikes a balanced challenge, neither soft nor overly stiff.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the protection needs along the route. Gear placements require attention in finger crack sections, where holds feel precise but solid. The bolted anchor at the top eases the descent.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
hand crack
top bolted anchor