HomeClimbingA Trip to the Tip

A Trip to the Tip: Trad Climbing at Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder

North Hollywood, California United States
trad
slab
crack climbing
single pitch
Joshua Tree
desert
bolted crux
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Trip to the Tip
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Trip to the Tip offers climbers a focused trad challenge on Joshua Tree’s largest nearby formation. Combining bolted slab moves with a jagged crack finish, this single-pitch route rewards precise gear placement and calm nerves in a striking desert setting."

A Trip to the Tip: Trad Climbing at Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder

Set just east of the imposing Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder, 'A Trip to the Tip' invites climbers to test their skills on the largest formation within this bustling corner of Joshua Tree National Park. The route begins on the southwest edge of the formation—a broad slab that rewards steady hands and focused footwork as you pass three fixed bolts marking the crux of the climb. From there, the terrain shifts into a narrow, jagged crack rated at 5.8, demanding precision and dexterity as the line narrows towards a spacious ledge framed by towering boulders. The rock here is firm but textured, challenging climbers to balance commitment with careful gear placement. Finalizing this single-pitch adventure is a comfortable gear belay, setting the stage for a straightforward walk-off descent. Though rated at 5.9, the climb offers a blend of straightforward moves with a crux that tests technique on bolted slab and crack climbing.

Approaching the route, adventurers find themselves amidst the high desert’s ruggedness, where dry air carries the faint scent of creosote and the sun’s warmth presses against granite surfaces. The larger formation’s sheer bulk commands attention, presenting a blank canvas for climbers eager to engage with Joshua Tree’s classic crack and slab styles. Protection relies on a limited set of bolts combined with traditional gear placements up to 2.5 inches, making a standard rack essential. The jagged crack section invites careful hand and finger placements, rewarding those who bring steady nerves and precise chosen gear.

Joshua Tree’s famous desert sun shapes every moment on this climb. Morning sessions lend cooler conditions and soft light, ideal for warming up before the intensity of the crux bolts demands full attention. Afternoon shade creeps over the rock face, easing temperature but quickening the need to watch for loose rock and maintaining diligent footwork on the slab. The location’s accessibility in the Hollywood Area offers a quick hike from the base, with solid trail conditions and a clear GPS marking near 34.03514 latitude and -116.05199 longitude to guide the approach. Completing the ascent, climbers retreat via a walk-off where careful navigation among boulders and ledges ensures a smooth exit from the climb.

Planning for 'A Trip to the Tip' is straightforward yet requires measured preparation. Lightweight trad gear, including a selection of cams fitting up to 2.5 inches, three draws for bolt clipping, and a helmet for the occasional loose rock is advised. Early morning or late afternoon climbs protect you from the midday desert heat, and due to the exposed nature of the slab, sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging are a must. Water and sun protection are non-negotiable, especially given Joshua Tree’s arid environment. While the route carries only a single star rating based on user feedback, the combination of slab and crack climbing and the beautiful natural setting make it a valued experience for 5.9 trad enthusiasts looking for a moderate challenge with a manageable approach.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the slab where foot placements are critical, especially near the crux bolts. Loose rock can appear near the crack section — a helmet is strongly advised. Avoid climbing in extreme heat to reduce risk of dehydration or slips due to sweaty hands.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday desert heat on the slab.

Wear shoes with solid edging for slab climbing.

Helmet recommended due to occasional loose rock near the crack section.

Use GPS coordinates for straightforward approach starting at southwest corner of the formation.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this climb balances a bolted slab crux with a 5.8 thin crack finish. The grade feels appropriately challenging for intermediate trad climbers, with the bolted moves demanding clean technique while the crack invites technical gear placements. It’s accessible but not overly soft, providing solid value for its grade.

Gear Requirements

Requires 3 bolts plus traditional gear placements up to 2.5 inches. Bring standard trad rack and quickdraws for bolt clipping.

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Tags

trad
slab
crack climbing
single pitch
Joshua Tree
desert
bolted crux