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A Slut Climb Named Desire

Estes Park, Colorado USA
off-width
trad
single pitch
crack climb
colorado
Becker Wall
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Slut Climb Named Desire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused trad climb on Becker Wall, A Slut Climb Named Desire challenges climbers with a twisting off-width crack and a tight finish beneath a small roof. Perfect for early season adventures with solid protection and broad canyon views."

A Slut Climb Named Desire

Carved into Becker Wall on Palisade Mountain, “A Slut Climb Named Desire” offers a compact but gritty trad experience that fits perfectly into a day exploring Big Thompson Canyon. The route follows a distinctive thin crack packing the left side of the rock face, coaxing climbers into a tactile dance with the stone. Starting just twenty feet from the left end, an off-width fold challenges you from the outset—a test of awkward jams and steady patience. The crack twists upward beneath a small roof, demanding precise hand and foot placement before easing into a short, technical face finish where balance and body tension take over. It’s a modest 40 feet, but each move carries intent and rewards focus.

The route is supported by traditional gear placements up to two inches, with a key sling extending two to three feet to navigate tricky protection spots safely. Because the wall sees limited traffic, the rock holds a quiet energy, offering climbers the chance to engage with the character of the stone, feeling its cool texture and counting the subtle sound of chalk on rock against the soft canyon breeze. The surrounding landscape spills views into Estes Park Valley, framing the climb with rugged Colorado hues and the ever-present silhouette of the Palisade itself.

Approach is straightforward but worth noting—expect a short trek through mixed terrain, starting at the Big Thompson Canyon trailhead near GPS coordinates 40.43666, -105.31171. Footwear should prioritize sticky rubber for confident edging, while a light rack fitting down to tiny cams will make all placements smooth and secure. Timing a climb early in the morning or late afternoon brings shade to the wall, easing midday heat during warmer months. Given its single pitch and modest length, the climb suits trad beginners stepping up from sport routes as well as seasoned climbers hunting a quick, focused project.

Safety here is about respect for the nuances of the protection—sling placement demands care, and the off-width portion requires controlled body movements to avoid strain. Rock quality remains good but loose flakes are possible around the small roof band; scanning and testing holds is essential before committing to moves. With an average rating of 5.8, this route carries a solid challenge, feeling just stiff enough to demand steady technique without overwhelming effort.

Stepping back after the final move, the descent involves a short walk off along the well-trodden ridge leading back to the trailhead, offering time to savor the crisp mountain air and the satisfying afterglow of a route climbed cleanly and with intent. Whether you arrive driven by curiosity or the need to sharpen trad skills, A Slut Climb Named Desire punches above its weight, inviting every climber to engage directly with Big Thompson Canyon’s timeless rock and open skies.

Climber Safety

Pay attention to sling placements near the roof section to avoid gear pullout. The rock quality is generally stable but test holds before full commitment, especially on less travelled surfaces. The approach trail can be rocky; plan footwear accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid high sun exposure and keep the rock cool.

Scout and test gear placements carefully around the roof where holds can feel less secure.

Approach via Big Thompson Canyon trailhead; expect mixed terrain and a 15-minute hike.

Wear shoes with aggressive rubber for the delicate face moves near the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels solid rather than soft; the off-width crack demands a good technique balance between jamming strength and finesse. The short face finish adds a technical crux that slightly bumps the overall difficulty. Compared to local climbs of similar grade, this route offers a direct crack experience with an accessible but engaging challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with protection sized to 2 inches and a 2-3 foot sling to effectively navigate the off-width section and roof band. Sticky-soled shoes improve foot placements on the exposed face.

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Tags

off-width
trad
single pitch
crack climb
colorado
Becker Wall