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A Little Too Psyched

Monterrey, Nuevo Leon Mexico
crack climbing
dihedral
sport climbing
single pitch
dry conditions
north mexico
Length: 110 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Little Too Psyched
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Little Too Psyched delivers a focused 110-foot sport climb with a demanding low crux and a thrilling finish along orange crack and dihedral features. Perfect for climbers seeking a technical challenge in the sun-drenched walls of San Isidro Canyon."

A Little Too Psyched

A Little Too Psyched stands out as a concise yet invigorating climb carved into the rugged walls of San Isidro Canyon, in the vibrant heart of Northern Mexico. From the moment your fingers brush the initial holds, the route challenges with a crux low on the wall that demands precision and strength, setting the tone for the ascent. After overcoming this early hurdle, the climb opens into a sequence of gripping orange cracks and a sharply defined dihedral that tests not only technique but also your ability to read the rock’s subtle cues.

The 110-foot pitch is defined by its sport climbing nature, protected by a combination of well-placed bolts and mussy hooks, offering a balance between secure clipping points and the attentive footwork demanded by the route’s features. The rock’s warm tones contrast with the sharp blue sky above, inviting climbers to savor the sun-soaked environment while pushing their limits. The crack and dihedral serve as both an obstacle and a guide, leading you smoothly but attentively toward the chains that mark the top.

San Isidro Canyon itself is a raw playground where the natural landscape exerts a quiet insistence. The climb’s setting, just outside the energetic city of Monterrey, delivers a sense of escape without sacrificing accessibility. Vegetation clings to ledges and crevices, and the canyon air carries the dry heat typical of the Nuevo Leon region, adding a tactile element that reminds you this is as much about endurance and preparation as it is about movement.

To get the most from A Little Too Psyched, arrive early to avoid the midday sun, especially since the climb’s azimuth does not fully shield against the heat once the day advances. Bring climbing shoes with sticky rubber to confidently manage both the crack jams and the face holds, and clip in with a quickdraw set suited for sport routes. Hydrate thoroughly before and after the climb, as the arid conditions can sneak up on you. The approach to the wall is straightforward but demands attentiveness on loose terrain.

Climbers looking for a brief yet rewarding test will appreciate the route’s compact length and sharp crux. While the 5.10d rating aligns with moderate challenges for experienced climbers, the route’s key sequences can feel unexpectedly powerful, particularly on the dihedral moves that draw on technical mastery and balance. Compared to other climbs in the region, A Little Too Psyched offers a direct and lively experience without the prolonged commitment of multi-pitch routes, perfect for those aiming to sharpen skills in a captivating natural amphitheater.

Safety on this climb centers around respecting the brittle quality of some of the holds near the crux and ensuring steady clipping on bolts and mussy hooks. The cliff’s rugged character calls for focused attention, especially during descent and on the approach. After topping out, descending is best managed by a rappel from fixed anchors, with caution to avoid loose rock and maintain rope control.

This single-pitch challenge reflects the spirit of San Isidro Canyon itself—raw, dynamic, and rewarding for those ready to connect with the rock and moment. A Little Too Psyched promises not just a route but a brief encounter where grit and grace meet under the northern Mexican sun.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of some fragile holds around the crux and double-check all clipping points especially around the mussy hooks. The approach trail involves loose rock, increasing risk of slips—take deliberate steps and avoid hiking in flip-flops.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the harsh midday sun and heat.

Approach requires caution on loose scree terrain; wear sturdy shoes.

Bring plenty of water; the dry canyon environment dehydrates quickly.

Descend by rappel using fixed anchors; watch for loose rock near the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade reflects a solid challenge with a succinct crux near the base that tests power and technique. While the rating feels fair, the route can push climbers accustomed to longer climbs due to the intensity packed into its short length. Compared to nearby sport routes, it ranks as a technical gem with tight sequences rather than sustained endurance sections.

Gear Requirements

Sport equipped with bolts and mussy hooks requiring quickdraws suited for reliable clipping. Sticky rubber shoes recommended for crack jams and face holds.

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Tags

crack climbing
dihedral
sport climbing
single pitch
dry conditions
north mexico