HomeClimbingA Little Nukey

A Little Nukey Climb on Power Dome’s West Face

Fresno, California United States
trad
5.9
multi-pitch
alpine
roof
corner crack
bolted sections
desert granite
Southern Sierra
Length: 750 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
A Little Nukey
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Little Nukey carves a classic line up Power Dome’s west face, blending technical 5.9 moves with varied features including bolts, cracks, and a bold roof. This moderate alpine trad climb rewards precision and preparation with stunning Sierra vistas and a clean descent."

A Little Nukey Climb on Power Dome’s West Face

Rising sharply on the western flank of Power Dome near Courtright Reservoir, A Little Nukey offers a compelling blend of alpine trad climbing that challenges and rewards in equal measure. This 750-foot route slices through layered granite, presenting five pitches of varied textures—from shallow dishes and steadfast edges to bold roof traverses and classic corner cracks. Starting with a bolt-assisted pitch that eases you into the rhythm, the rock quickly grows more featured, demanding focused footwork and steady hands as you ascend past eight bolts up to the first belay.

Pitch two raises the stakes with a handful of 5.9 moves just above the anchor, pushing climbers over a pronounced black roof before angling left along a delicate line of bolts. The exposure elevates your senses here; the slabs and edges respond underfoot, while distant breezes whisper reminders of the granite’s vast openness. The third pitch invites a choice—a direct but physical 5.9 corner or a slightly longer, less intense flake traverse that requires vigilant protection and care, especially given the questionable state of some bolts at the belay.

Traversing right from the fourth belay, you encounter solution pockets ideal for cams and trays, placing trusted protection before following a distinctive black water streak up the rock. This pitch segues into easier climbing, letting you breathe easier as you near the summit. The final pitch climbs a right-facing corner slanting beneath pine branches, where 4th class scrambling finishes the route and opens out onto wide views of the Southern Sierra’s rugged silhouette.

Climbers should come prepared with a moderate rack including cams up to #1 Camelot and a 60-meter rope to comfortably negotiate the pitches and rappels. Note the vintage condition of some bolts on the third pitch; supplementing protection and carefully backing up belays here is essential for safety. The approach is straightforward, with walk-off descent east along the dome’s ridge returning you to the parking area by ways of gravel roads, making it convenient to plan your day.

A Little Nukey is not just a climb—it's a measured adventure weaving alpine elements, technical trad sequences, and the invigorating air of California’s high country. Whether you're aiming to sharpen your trad skills or enjoy a clear, well-protected alpine outing, this route offers both a challenge and a connection to one of the Sierra’s bold rock faces.

Climber Safety

Be aware that several bolts on pitch three’s belay are old and unreliable, including rusty buttonheads and spinners. Always back up belay anchors with your own gear where possible. Watch for loose rock on the approach to pitch four where solution pockets can be deceptive. Descent is straightforward but requires attention on the walk-off route to avoid loose scree.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length750 feet

Local Tips

Double-check bolts on pitch 3 and back up the belay with gear.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun and afternoon winds on the face.

Stay hydrated and bring layered clothing—weather can shift quickly at elevation.

Use a 60m rope to reach all belay stations and rappel comfortably.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels true to the Sierra’s honest style—there are a few crux moves especially on pitch two’s roof section and the 5.9 corner on pitch three, but overall the grade is approachable for seasoned trad climbers. The sustained sequences near 5.8 help balance the route’s difficulty, making it an excellent step up for braving alpine exposure while building confidence on mixed protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a 60m rope, 9 draws, slings with biners, and a moderate trad rack up to #1 Camelot. Expect a mix of bolt-protected pitches and placements for cams in solution pockets, especially on pitches 3 and 4. Supplement belays on pitch 3 due to questionable bolt condition.

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Tags

trad
5.9
multi-pitch
alpine
roof
corner crack
bolted sections
desert granite
Southern Sierra