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A Few Tense Moments: A Bold Trad Test on Newfoundland's Main Face

St. John's, Canada
rockfall
roof crux
technical pro
single pitch
west facing
Newfoundland granite
exposed
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Few Tense Moments
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Once a moderate 5.8 slab, "A Few Tense Moments" now demands respect with its hard 5.10d crux low on Flatrock’s Main Face. A single-pitch boulder problem roof leads into a steady corner, combining technical moves and exposed climbing on rough Newfoundland granite."

A Few Tense Moments: A Bold Trad Test on Newfoundland's Main Face

Set against the rugged landscape of Flatrock on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula, "A Few Tense Moments" commands attention as a trad climb that requires focus and respect. This 60-foot single-pitch route no longer offers the straightforward moderate climb it once did. Years of rockfall have shifted boulders and transformed the approach, adding a demanding 5.10d crux low on the wall that challenges even confident trad climbers. The climb begins with an awkward roof maneuver protected by thin placements that will test your gear judgment. Once through this technical section, the route opens into an inviting corner system that eases the effort, rewarding you with steady, moderate moves to a roomy ledge above.

The wall itself, carved from Flatrock’s coarse granite, connects you directly to the raw energy and exposed atmosphere of Newfoundland’s coastal cliffs. Sea winds often push through the approach trail, sharpening your senses as you prepare mentally for the fight below. The location offers more than physical challenge—expect piercing ocean air and the occasional distant call of gulls, underscoring how close you are to the island’s relentless coastline.

Preparation is key here. The gear rack should span from tiny 00 cams through sizable 3-inch placements, with attention paid to the quality of protection near the anchor, where fixed gear is scarce and placements can feel marginal. Given the recent rockfall, helmet use on approach and during the climb is essential for safety.

Getting here involves a short hike over uneven boulder-strewn ground, demanding solid footwear and steady footing before the climb begins. Flatrock’s Main Face faces generally west, making late afternoon ideal for climbing when the sun warms the slab and shadows soften. Spring through fall is the recommended season, avoiding icy conditions that render the roof section far more dangerous.

For climbers seeking a straightforward moderate trad line, this is not the place. But if your heart is set on a technical challenge that blends awkward moves with a real sense of exposure and commitment, "A Few Tense Moments" delivers with uncompromising character. The route’s evolving nature reminds you to stay sharp and adaptable while giving you a taste of Newfoundland’s often wild climbing spirit.

Climber Safety

Significant rockfall and unstable boulder movement at the base mean wearing a helmet is essential. Anchor gear is not optimal, so proceed with caution on the belay. Check conditions before your climb, especially after heavy rain or freeze-thaw cycles.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet due to recent rockfall and unstable boulders at the base.

Approach requires careful footing over loose, shifted rocks—solid climbing shoes and hiking boots for the walk-in.

Late afternoon offers the best light and warmth on the west-facing wall.

Bring extra slings and long runners for tricky gear placements in the roof and corner.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:This route’s 5.10d rating reflects a meaningful increase from its original 5.8 stamp, driven largely by the awkward roof crux low on the wall. The protection is thin but manageable, requiring solid technical skills and confidence in marginal gear placements. Climbers familiar with local Avalon Peninsula routes will appreciate the bold feel that mirrors other challenging trad lines in the area.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack from 00 to 3 inch cams recommended. Watch for thin protection on the roof section and sparse placements near the anchor.

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Tags

rockfall
roof crux
technical pro
single pitch
west facing
Newfoundland granite
exposed