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A Farewell to Poodles

Twentynine Palms, California United States
dual crack
bulge traverse
single pitch
standard rack
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Farewell to Poodles
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Experience a focused trad climb on Hemingway Buttress’s right flank, featuring a dynamic dual crack system and a bulging crux. Ideal for crack climbers seeking solid rock and straightforward protection in the high desert."

A Farewell to Poodles

A Farewell to Poodles delivers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that invites you to test your crack climbing skills on the rugged East Face of Hemingway Buttress in Joshua Tree National Park. This 60-foot route stakes its claim on the right side of the buttress's middle section, starting beneath a distinctive dual crack system that commands respect and focus. From the very first move, you'll traverse right beneath the established "For Whom the Poodle Tolls," feeling the rugged texture of Joshua Tree's famous quartz monzonite gripping your hands with reliable friction.

Ascend steadily into the left crack, where the rock’s sharp edges and solid holds create a tactile experience, pushing your fingers and feet to work in concert. The route crescendos at a noticeable bulge, a natural feature that tests your balance and technique as you navigate around it. Without hesitation, a strategic traverse cuts right into the corresponding crack, opening a path for the final stretch to the top. This transition demands precision, as the crack’s dimensions change and you must adjust your body position against the rock’s playful contours.

Interest here lies not only in the technical moves but in the rhythm set by the crack system—each segment offering its own challenge and reward. The crack’s personality shifts as you climb, revealing sections that invite jams, liebacks, and solid foot placements. As you near the summit, the rock widens subtly, encouraging confident finishing moves on solid holds under open skies that shimmer with the desert’s afternoon light.

For planning your ascent, a standard rack will serve you well, covering a range of cam sizes to secure protection through the varying widths of the dual cracks. The approaches in Joshua Tree are well-marked, but prepare for loose sandy patches and sun-exposed sections on the trail leading to Hemingway Buttress. Early morning climbs are ideal to beat the desert heat and enjoy cooler conditions; late fall through early spring offers the best seasonal window with mild temperatures and clear skies.

Joshua Tree’s desert environment adds its own voice to the experience: the dry wind might whisper through the crevices, while distant scrub and sparse pines cast long shadows that shift as the day progresses. The rock offers a sturdy testament to the forces that shaped this landscape, with each hold telling a story grounded in solid reliability rather than fragility.

Whether you’re new to trad climbing or seeking a classic moderate route full of crack climbing opportunities, A Farewell to Poodles provides a direct, no-nonsense adventure with clear beta and enough variety to keep your senses alert. Prepare to engage both mind and body in equal measure, keep your rack ready for the multi-sized placements, and savor the steady challenge set against one of California’s iconic climbing backdrops.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the traverse around the bulge—foot placements can be sparse and the rock slightly less featured. Also, the approach trail includes loose sandy stretches that can cause slips if you're not careful. The rock quality is generally sound but remain alert for occasional sharp edges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday desert heat on east-facing rock.

Check the approach trail for sandy patches; wear sturdy hiking shoes.

Scout the bulge traverse carefully before climbing—foot placements matter here.

Carry plenty of water and sun protection; the Joshua Tree sun is relentless even in cooler months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits the route’s sustained crack climbing with a definite crux at the bulge traverse. The grade feels fair, with the moves requiring some finesse around the bulge that bumps the difficulty slightly above a typical 5.9 crack climb. Compared to other Hemingway Buttress routes, this climb offers a moderately stiff challenge balanced by solid protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack covering small to medium cams to protect the dual crack system, especially for the bulge traverse. Nuts and smaller cams will back you up on less featured sections.

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Tags

dual crack
bulge traverse
single pitch
standard rack
desert climbing
Joshua Tree