"A & E Finger Crack offers a sharp, focused trad climb along a modest finger crack with technical jams and a chimney finish. Though short and slightly vegetated, it’s a worthy quick climb to refine crack technique within the scenic Almost Asshole Rock area."
A & E Finger Crack is a compact but engaging climb that catches the eye of trad climbers seeking a quick, sharp challenge within the rugged sandstone of Almost Asshole Rock, near Buffalo Creek in Colorado. While not the destination route of the area, this finger crack offers purposeful movement and technical delicacy, making it perfect as a supplementary send on a day packed with climbs around South Platte. The climb stands roughly 80 feet tall, hugging a slender crack line that demands precise hand and foot jams, interspersed with brief sections of featured face rock.
Begin with a short scramble up low-angle rock to access the crack. Premature vegetation softens the rock’s edges, offering natural texture but also a slight distraction. About halfway up, the climb tightens: here, the crux unfolds with no face holds available, forcing a committed combination of finger jams and delicate foot placements inside the thin seam. This section tests both strength and finesse — the kind of move that rewards climbers tuned into crack technique.
Protection is straightforward yet demands a well-stocked rack. Small cams, such as standard C3 sizes, and finger-sized nuts find good purchase in the crack’s constrictions, while near the top, more substantial gear comes into play. A #2 Camalot fits the tight hand-sized section, offering a reliable anchor spot. The upper portion widens slightly into a chimney-like feature, leading to a generous ledge where one can comfortably set up solid anchors.
The area surrounding Almost Asshole Rock offers a rugged, intimate climbing environment amid the sprawling South Platte region. The rock’s textured surface, flecked with hues of rust and ochre, carries the history of countless ascents, and the forested approach sets a quiet tone before the climb begins. This route excels as a side excursion or warm-up, allowing climbers to refine crack skills without the commitment of a full-day project.
Timing a climb here calls for attention to seasonal shifts. Spring and fall provide the most stable weather and comfortable temperatures, while summer afternoons tend to bake the sandstone, making holds feel slick and the approach exhausting under an open sun. Plan to climb in mid-morning or late afternoon to take advantage of dappled shade cast by surrounding pines.
For safety, keep an eye on the ledge near the top, which, while ample, requires mindful anchoring to avoid loose rock patches and to secure a protected belay space. The approach trail demands good footwear—expect a mix of packed dirt, loose scree, and occasional root tangles. Hydration on the walk-in is essential, as the path offers little in the way of shade or water sources.
Ultimately, A & E Finger Crack calls to climbers who appreciate thoughtful, technical climbs packed into a brief footprint. It’s a no-frills, reliable crack ascent—practical, direct, and welcoming for those sharpening their trad gear placements or seeking a quick climb to punctuate their time at South Platte.
Watch for loose rock near the top ledge where the chimney section opens. Build anchors carefully and test placements, especially since some natural vegetation may disguise weaknesses. The approach has some loose scree—take care to avoid slips with proper footwear.
Arrive early or late in the day to avoid hot, slick sandstone surfaces.
Wear sturdy shoes with good traction for the loose, vegetated approach.
Bring hydration—no water sources are available on the trail.
Check gear placements carefully near the chimney section to ensure solid protection.
Carry a standard rack focused on small cams and finger-sized nuts. C3-sized cams work well in placements, with a #2 Camalot fitting the narrow hand-sized crack near the top. The anchor is best established near a good ledge using #1 Camalot-sized gear.
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