A Cream of White Mice stands as a challenging Peter Croft classic tucked high against The Chief’s imposing granite faces near Squamish, British Columbia. This four-pitch trad route demands more than just physical strength — it calls for a steady nerve and sharp strategy. The climb begins in a cedar-lined groove, a quiet, almost deceptive introduction that soon transitions into a tension-filled arete. The rock here dares you upward with its clean, smooth face, offering only occasional gear placements that test your trust in protection and your ability to read the rock. The first pitch stakes a stiff 5.8, balancing exposure and technical moves on a bolted arete that lures you to a small stance just beneath a sharp dike.

Pitch two relaxes to a casual 5.4, ascending easy terrain along the dike as you make a leftward turn, peppered with enough gear to feel comfortable, if sparse. The bolted belay anchors left of the arete offers a solid reset point before you face the heart of the route.

The third pitch is the crux and the route’s defining character: a long, smooth, rightward traverse that tests your resolve and trust in every hold and thread of protection. Headed with a 5.9 rating but feels stiffer given the runout nature and the technical commitment, this is where the climb ghosts into serious exposure. The traverse pushes you out onto a sleek granite wall — unyielding, unforgiving, and nearly unprotectable. Your foot placements become prayers; your gear placements brief beacons in a smooth sea of stone. The belay sits tucked in a corner, a relief that feels earned.

Pitch four continues upward through a corner that demands awkward moves and careful exit strategy. The 5.9 rating on this final pitch is well-earned, as it forces climbers to manage fatigue, placement, and route-finding before reaching the forested final resting place atop The Chief.

For climbers planning this adventure, a 60m rope is ideal, offering the option to link pitches three and four — but be warned, this amplifies the seriousness of the traverse and the risk exposure. Protective gear to 2 inches is required, with a critical placement near the start of the traverse easing the crux for the leader. For the second, a calm, collected head is your greatest asset; prepare for sparse pro and tricky placements amid smooth rock.

Squamish itself adds to the experience, a rugged playground where towering granite walls meet temperate rainforest. The approach follows forest trails lined with cedar and fir, the sound of distant water echoing through the underbrush. The Chief’s walls catch the late afternoon sun, the granite surface warming beneath your hands even in cool weather. It's a classic climb that rewards experience, caution, and respect for the rock’s subtle but relentless challenge.

In all, A Cream of White Mice is for those who seek a route with character defined by technical smoothness, exposure, and the need for confident gear placements. It's a reminder that tradition in climbing often carries equal parts beauty and caution—each move a conversation with the stone. Know your gear, trust your judgment, and prepare for a journey that will test your grit as much as your climbing skill.