"A Coarse Line delivers a concise, technical sport climb framed by the unique features of Slamdance Buttress. Its smooth huecos and reachy flake invite careful footwork and precise movement, making it an excellent challenge for climbers seeking a focused 5.9 pitch in Estes Park."
A Coarse Line offers a straightforward yet satisfying sport climb on the striking Slamdance Buttress, perched within the Lily Mountain area along Colorado’s Hwy 7 corridor. This 35-foot route is a compact burst of vertical movement that engages with a distinctive left-facing flake to begin—thin and technical enough to challenge reach but approachable for most climbers comfortable operating at the 5.9 level. Above the flake, smooth huecos spread across the rock face, inviting confident hand placements and steady footwork.
The climb’s environment feels open without feeling exposed, perched on a clean face that captures Colorado’s rugged spirit. The sun often warms the wall in the afternoon, but early day climbers will find the shaded rock cooler and easier on the skin. The climb moves relentlessly upward without any forced rests or tricky sequences, a solid choice for climbers wanting a quick, focused ascent that tests technique over brute strength.
Protection consists of four well-spaced bolts, culminating in a two-bolt anchor with rings for safe and efficient rappelling. Given the short length, this route offers an excellent training ground for refining clipping skills and managing clipping tension under short-rope scenarios.
The approach to Slamdance Buttress is a gentle hike through mixed terrain typical of the Estes Park Valley's forests, with clear trail markers guiding climbers. The climb’s location is close enough to Estes Park itself to allow for easy access, but still distinct enough to provide a quiet pocket away from busier crags.
Though rated 5.9, some locals like Rich Perch suggest the route leans closer to 5.10, mainly due to the reachy moves and precise foot placements required on the initial flake. For those below average height, a dynamic lunge upward may be necessary to establish a secure hold amid the huecos. This subtle difficulty bump gives the route character, rewarding thoughtful movement and good beta over power.
Gear-wise, the four bolts along the route ensure solid protection, but smile carefully when clipping on the first few moves, as the spacing demands deliberate, confident clipping without fumbling. The rock quality is solid, with no loose blocks, but a cautious eye is always recommended wherever the flake begins.
Upon completion, rappellers will find the two-bolt anchor straightforward to set up and descend from, making the route a seamless one-pitch experience. Planning climbs during the shoulder seasons—spring and fall—provides optimal temperature and comfortable climbing conditions here. Summer afternoons can grow warm on the wall, while winter periods call for more technical gear and caution due to potential icy conditions.
Whether you’re a visitor to the Estes Park region or an established local craving a precise, focused sport pitch, A Coarse Line offers a climb that blends straightforward climbing with subtle technical nuances. It's an ideal pick for those who appreciate clean moves, reliable protection, and a brief yet rewarding exchange with Colorado’s limestone cliffs.
Watch your clipping on the first few bolts—the spacing leaves little room for error and requires deliberate movement. The flake start is stable but narrow, so check holds carefully before weighting, especially during colder months when the rock can feel slick.
Visit in spring or fall to avoid the heat of summer afternoons.
Bring small to medium quickdraws to manage tight clip placements.
Approach via marked trails from Estes Park; expect about a 20-minute hike over mixed terrain.
Rappel from the two-bolt anchor using doubles or a single 60m rope.
Four bolts along the route protect the climb, finishing in a two-bolt anchor equipped with rings for rappelling. The bolt spacing demands secure clipping technique, especially near the start on the left-facing flake.
Upload your photos of A Coarse Line and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.