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A Cheval: Boulder Canyon’s Understated Trad Challenge

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
single pitch
crack protection
slab approach
Colorado granite
moderate difficulty
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Cheval
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Cheval offers a precise blend of easy slab and technical moves on Boulder Canyon’s Second Tier. Perfect for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack placements amid solid granite, this unassuming 100-foot pitch invites careful footwork and steady confidence on protected terrain."

A Cheval: Boulder Canyon’s Understated Trad Challenge

A Cheval offers climbers a chance to step onto rock that’s quietly tucked beside Boulder Canyon’s more famous lines. This one-pitch, 100-foot climb rides up the Second Tier of Avalon, threading an inviting dihedral that balances straightforward moves with a few subtle challenges. The route begins on easy slab, guiding you toward an unassuming arete where a bolt draws your eye—this is your first hint that the climb blends natural features with modern protection. As you ascend, you’ll encounter two more bolts placed thoughtfully along easy terrain, but the real test emerges near a third bolt. Here, handholds and footholds lose their juggy certainty, demanding careful foot placement and deliberate movement. Beyond the crux, a crack running on the left side of the arete invites you to place protection as the angle eases and the climbing opens up.

The rock’s texture offers tactile feedback, a mix of solid friction and inviting edges, perfect for those developing their crack skills in a low-commitment setting. The route concludes at the two-bolt anchor shared with the neighboring Dihedral One, allowing for a straightforward rap or walk-off. Though A Cheval flies under the radar—its absence from most guides hints at its quiet reputation—it’s an excellent option for climbers looking to break into Boulder Canyon trad lines without overwhelming complexity. If you anticipate your first alpine-style lead or want to refine gear placements while enjoying a classic Colorado granite setting, this climb delivers.

Plan your outing with hydration and suitable footwear to navigate the base slab safely, where moss and lichen can sometimes soften holds. Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid the midday heat common to Boulder’s canyon walls, while calm weather offers the best conditions for confident movement. The approach is straightforward, located within walking distance of Boulder’s climbing hubs, but be prepared for a brief scramble over uneven terrain to reach the base. Overall, A Cheval combines approachable climbing with pockets of technical intrigue, perfect for trad climbers seeking a straightforward yet engaging day out.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the slab approach where moss or lichen may reduce grip. The crux section demands deliberate movement; avoid rushing here to minimize slip risk. Anchors are bolted, but check placements and gear regularly due to occasional loose stone in the vicinity.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid the intense midday sun on the canyon walls.

Bring a light rack focused on smaller cams; #1 Camalot is essential.

Watch for moss on the low slab, which can reduce traction during the approach.

Use sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging for the subtle footwork on non-juggy sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, A Cheval sits comfortably in the moderate trad range, though the crux near the third bolt introduces a brief moment requiring precise foot placement and careful movement. While it doesn’t carry the intimidation of Boulder Canyon’s harder routes, it presents a climbing experience that feels true to local standards—a soft grade with a technical crux that keeps you focused.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts and a light traditional rack up to #1 Camalot, suitable for placements in the crack left of the arete.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
crack protection
slab approach
Colorado granite
moderate difficulty