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A Bit of a Tosser: Sport Climbing on Burney Limestone

Burney, California United States
sport climbing
limestone
slab
side pulls
pockets
bulge crux
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Bit of a Tosser
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Bit of a Tosser offers a focused 40-foot challenge on Burney Limestone’s Outer Wall. This sport climb demands precise slab technique mixed with engaging side pulls and pocket sequences, wrapped in a quiet northeastern California setting."

A Bit of a Tosser: Sport Climbing on Burney Limestone

A Bit of a Tosser stands out on the sun-drenched face of the Outer Wall’s Burney Limestone, offering a compact but engaging climb that challenges the fingers and tests slab precision. From the moment you step onto the route, the holds beckon with their inviting side pulls and crisp edges that demand both balance and finesse. The initial moves lead you onto a gently angled slab, where steady footwork and mindful weight distribution transform the rock into a puzzle of pockets and subtle incuts. As the climb steepens, the route rewards patience with increasingly positive holds, culminating in a compelling bulge. Here, compact side pulls and a sharp flake dictate the sequence, requiring a blend of strength and technique to surmount and reach the anchor rings above.

Despite its modest length, at 40 feet, this pitch packs a technical punch typical of a 5.10a climb, making it a worthy challenge for those honing their sport climbing skills or looking to sharpen slab tactics. The five well-placed bolts provide a reassuring safety net, yet the reliance on delicate foot placements and nuanced handholds keeps the adventure engaging. The limestone’s texture carries a quiet presence underfoot, with the sun warming the rock, an invitation to move fluidly and rhythmically.

Burney Limestone's location in northeast California offers a raw, open experience away from crowded crags, set amid expansive skies and forested surroundings that frame the climb with fresh air and an inviting quiet. Access is straightforward, allowing climbers to focus on the moves instead of logistical headaches.

Before you slip on your shoes and chalk up, plan your timing: mornings bring cooler temperatures and optimal friction on the slab, while afternoon sun softens the rock temperature but can also sap grip. Bring shoes with a stiff sole for edging and fingers prepared for the side pulls and pocket work that define this route. Hydrate well and approach with a steady mindset—the line’s character is technical rather than physical, rewarding finesse over brute force.

Whether you’re stepping onto Burney Limestone for the first time or revisiting the Outer Wall’s charm, A Bit of a Tosser delivers a concise, satisfying experience with clear gear security and a route quality that leaves you eager to look for the next challenge nearby.

Climber Safety

While protection is secure due to solidly placed bolts, be cautious on the slab before the bulge where foot placements demand focus—slip-ups here can lead to longer falls. The anchors sit above a sharp flake, so inspect for loose rock and clip carefully to avoid unexpected swings.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures and better friction.

Wear climbing shoes with a firm sole for sharp edging on the slab sections.

Carry at least 12 quickdraws to ensure smooth clipping on the bolted route.

Approach is straightforward but watch for loose stones near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating fits well with the climb’s reliance on technical slab and side pulls, where footwear and balance play a crucial role. This grade feels true to form, with a brief bulge adding a punchy crux that tests upper body control without overly taxing endurance. Climbers familiar with similar California limestone sport routes will find the challenge approachable yet engaging.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with five bolts and a two-ring anchor, the route offers reliable protection on its compact, technical face. Ideal for sport climbers comfortable with slab moves that require precision clipping and confident footwork.

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Tags

sport climbing
limestone
slab
side pulls
pockets
bulge crux