HomeClimbingA Bit of a Dandy

A Bit of a Dandy: Sport Climbing on Yankee Doodle Slab

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
sport climbing
granite slab
technical face
single pitch
balancy moves
Poudre Canyon
Fort Collins
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Bit of a Dandy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Bit of a Dandy offers a short, technical sport climb on granite slab in Poudre Canyon. With seven bolts guiding you over a bulge and into balancy face moves, this route challenges your precision and footwork in a serene mountain setting near Fort Collins."

A Bit of a Dandy: Sport Climbing on Yankee Doodle Slab

Carving a path up the central face of Yankee Doodle Slab, A Bit of a Dandy offers a brisk, focused sport climb that balances moderate challenge with rewarding movement. This single-pitch route rises about 70 feet, secured by seven well-placed bolts that guide you over a distinctive bulge before easing into a sequence of delicate, balancy face moves. The slab itself vibrates with the heat of the afternoon sun, its smooth granite daring climbers to trust their feet and precision over brute force. The approach winds through the Narrows in Poudre Canyon, where ponderosas sway gently and pine needles crunch underfoot, setting a calm tone before the climb intensifies.

The route’s moderate 5.9- grade gives you a technical puzzle rather than a sheer physical grind, making it a great test for climbers looking to sharpen footwork and balance. Climbing A Bit of a Dandy means reading the subtle variations in texture beneath your fingers and feeling the wall shift beneath each weight transfer. At the bulge, where the angle inclines sharply, momentum and body positioning become essential, and from there the route relaxes into moves that reward smooth finesse over raw power.

Located near Fort Collins, this route benefits from a setting that combines both accessibility and a quiet sense of wilderness. The rock’s texture and angle encourage a reflective pace, inviting climbers to focus on technique and rhythm. Practical considerations for your climb include bringing at least seven quickdraws and gearing up with sticky-soled shoes designed for edging. The walk-in is straightforward but not without character—pine-scented air carries the sound of a distant creek, offering a peaceful counterpoint to the focused effort required on the wall.

Timing your ascent for late morning or early afternoon will maximize daylight and warmth, though summer climbers should prepare for variable sun exposure on the slab. A bit of dandy lives up to its name as a concise, elegant line that demands precision and gives back a steady sense of accomplishment. For those ready to step onto stability and movement in equal measure, this route offers a straightforward entry into the sport climbing options around Poudre Canyon. Balance, patience, and steady footwork are your allies here—qualities that will prepare you for more challenging climbs in the region or simply provide a satisfying afternoon challenge.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing carefully, especially on the bulge where the rock angle steepens and holds become slicker. Despite solid bolting, loose pine needles and dust can collect on footholds, so brushing before moves is advised. The approach trail has uneven sections; boots with good tread will prevent slips.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via The Narrows trailhead; follow trail markers for about 15 minutes to the base.

Start climbing late morning to catch sun on the slab but avoid peak afternoon heat.

Bring at least seven quickdraws to fully protect the route’s bolt line.

Wear shoes with strong edging capabilities for the slab’s subtle footholds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade feels approachable yet precise, leaning on balance and careful foot placements more than brute strength. The bulge introduces a short crux that demands clean movement; after that, the difficulty eases but remains technical. Compared to other nearby sport routes, A Bit of a Dandy sits comfortably for those transitioning from easier slab climbs to more sustained face challenges.

Gear Requirements

The route requires seven quickdraws to clip into the fixed bolts protecting the climb. Sticky-soled shoes are essential for the slab’s technical edges and smooth granite face. Expect well-spaced bolts but no additional gear needed beyond quickdraws.

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Tags

sport climbing
granite slab
technical face
single pitch
balancy moves
Poudre Canyon
Fort Collins