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99% Pure: A Classic Trad Climb at Observatory Rock

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad crack
single pitch
granite
mid-size cams
South Fork
easy runout
Colorado climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
99% Pure
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"99% Pure offers a reliable single-pitch trad climb on the South Fork wall of Observatory Rock. With a wide crack perfect for mid to large cam placements and a moderate crux, this route balances adventure and accessibility for climbers developing their crack skills."

99% Pure: A Classic Trad Climb at Observatory Rock

99% Pure stands out on Observatory Rock’s South Fork wall as a straightforward yet satisfying trad climb that rewards steady effort and smart gear placement. The route begins at the same narrow slot as the Original Route but immediately veers left into a broad crack that stretches upward with a near-vertical incline. This crack is the heart of the climb, inviting climbers with its reassuring width and secure placements suited for mid to large-sized cams. Each move feels deliberate, demanding strong hand jams and a methodic approach to gear. After climbing 10 to 12 feet, the angle suddenly eases, giving a much-needed break as you approach a moderate runout stretching toward the lone tree crowning the finish.

The sensory experience here is elemental: the coarse granite under your fingers, the snap of cams sliding into perfect homes, and the ambient whisper of the canyon's breeze reminding you of the wilderness beyond the rock face. This climb balances risk and comfort seamlessly—while the runout approaching the top tree keeps you honest, the crack’s consistent protection opportunities keep that sense of safety intact.

For those seeking a classic 5.9 pitch in the Lyons, Colorado area that mixes solid crack climbing with accessible terrain, 99% Pure fits the bill. Its compact length makes it an ideal objective for a half-day trip, allowing time to soak in the canyon’s layered walls and the surrounding foothills. Observant climbers will appreciate the quiet solitude of the South Fork, where each exchange with the stone feels intimate and immediate.

Preparation is key for a smooth climb. Bringing several cam units, especially duplicates in the #2 and #3 Camalot range, is essential — they slot perfectly into the crack’s rhythm and provide the necessary security. The hike-in to Observatory Rock is moderate and well-marked, but gloves can help protect your hands from rough granite during placement and gripping. Early to mid-morning ascents offer the best light, with the south-facing wall warming up quickly but remaining shaded enough to keep you comfortable through the spring and fall.

After summiting, the descent back to the base involves a short walk-off that’s straightforward but requires focus—watch your footing on loose gravel to avoid slips. Unlike longer multi-pitch routes, this climb’s single pitch opens the door to sharing beta, swapping stories, and planning the next line in this accessible pocket of Colorado’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

The final section involves a moderate runout towards a lone tree anchor. Ensure your mid-size cams are well placed before committing upward, and double-check all gear placements. Loose gravel at the base demands careful footing during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Arrive early for cooler temperatures on the south-facing wall.

Bring a full trad rack focused on larger cams, duplicates essential.

Walk-off descent is easy but keep an eye on loose rock near the base.

Plan for light winds—South Fork offers some shelter, but weather can shift quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.9, this route sits comfortably within moderate crack climbing standards. The crux is short and straightforward, but the exposure near the finish tree adds a mental edge. Compared to nearby routes, 99% Pure feels approachable for those refining crack techniques while maintaining a measure of challenge.

Gear Requirements

Pack a diverse rack with duplicates of Camalots in #2 and #3 sizes to protect this crack properly. The placements are solid and well-seated for these mid-to-large cams. Gloves recommended for comfortable gear handling on the gritty granite.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
granite
mid-size cams
South Fork
easy runout
Colorado climbing