HomeClimbing5.9 South Crack

5.9 South Crack - Split Rock Colorado

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
finger crack
single pitch
traditional protection
granite face
shared anchors
good for intermediate climbers
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.9 South Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"South Crack blends technical crack climbing with clean granite face moves, offering a focused 65-foot single-pitch challenge just outside Buena Vista, Colorado. Ideal for climbers stepping up their trad skills in a scenic, manageable setting."

5.9 South Crack - Split Rock Colorado

South Crack at Split Rock in the heart of Buena Vista, Colorado offers climbers a focused but thrilling introduction to technical trad climbing on a modest yet engaging face. The route stretches a solid 65 feet, presenting a lone pitch that challenges you to navigate a left-leaning crack system before transitioning onto a textured face secured by a single bolt. The climb demands careful gear placement and a steady hand, rewarding you with an instructive test of jams, finger locks, and face moves.

The approach to the climb is straightforward, starting from the well-known Split Rock area, famous for its distinct granite formation perched just outside Buena Vista, a town framed by the towering peaks of the Sawatch Range. The air is crisp here, carrying the scent of pine and earth as you make your way across firm trails and scattered granite boulders. The crack itself encourages patience and skill—its gradual leftward bend feels like the rock is nudging you into a dance of balance and technique. The single bolt, placed mid-route, provides a reassuring safety point, but much of the protection relies on traditional gear: a set of stoppers and cams to fit the range of placements offered by the crack.

Given its modest star rating, South Crack is a reliable option for climbers honing their crack skills and seeking a manageable 5.9 route without the complexities of multi-pitch logistics. It's an ideal line for those who appreciate a straightforward ascent with just enough technicality to stay engaged. Climbers can expect solid granite underfoot and a face that demands precise footwork and confident edging.

Safety is key here; the rock quality is generally sound, but protection requires careful attention, particularly in the placement of stoppers along the crack. The shared anchor bolts with the adjacent 5.8 South Slab streamline top-rope setups and rappelling options, providing an efficient exit strategy after the climb. Timing your ascent in the morning to midday is advisable to avoid afternoon storms common in the region during the summer. The overall environment is dry, with temperatures that can swing quickly from cool mornings to warm afternoons, so layering and hydration plans are essential.

Split Rock’s location offers a quiet alternative to the busier climbs of the nearby Collegiate Peaks, yet it doesn't sacrifice the panoramic views of Colorado’s rugged high country. From the summit, hikers and climbers alike can take in sweeping sights of the Arkansas River Valley, dotted with aspen groves that blaze gold in the fall. The climb’s simplicity combined with its scenic surroundings makes South Crack a perfect outing for a focused training day or a leisurely afternoon of fun on granite.

Whether you’re refining crack techniques or seeking a single-pitch challenge rated at a crisp 5.9, South Crack is a rewarding climb with enough variation in terrain and protection to teach you the ropes and leave you primed for tougher lines ahead.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant with gear placements in the crack; some sections offer limited placement options and rely heavily on stoppers. The granite is stable but can be slick from morning dew or if wet, so plan climbs for dry conditions. Always confirm anchor integrity before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is short but rocky; sturdy hiking shoes help on the way in.

Morning climbs offer the best weather window; afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer.

Check gear placements carefully—protection can be sparse inside the crack.

Shared anchors enable a smooth rappel; bring a 60m rope for comfortable descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated a 5.9, South Crack leans toward the easier side of the grade with well-protected moves and a bolt that offers a security boost on the face section. The crux involves delicate footwork and hand jams on the left-tilting crack, making it a solid stepping stone before advancing to steeper or more complex lines nearby.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a good selection of stoppers and cams to cover the left-trending crack and secure placements. One fixed bolt is available mid-route for added safety. Shared anchor with 5.8 South Slab simplifies rappel or top-rope setup.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
traditional protection
granite face
shared anchors
good for intermediate climbers