"5.9 Sans Nom 2 challenges climbers with a bold, flaring crack and clean ledges on Mont Wright’s Main Wall. With solid bolted protection and a steep single pitch, it’s an approachable test of crack skills framed by Quebec’s dramatic granite."
Set against the rugged face of Mont Wright's Main Wall, the 5.9 Sans Nom 2 route offers climbers a concise yet compelling experience where every movement demands attention. The climb begins with a deliberate push toward a modest ledge, providing a moment to catch your breath and take in the raw granite thrusting skyward. From this initial perch, the route advances to a more expansive ledge—an inviting break that hints at the challenge ahead. The true test emerges as you commit to the large, flaring crack above, its width forcing technique shifts that reward both strength and finesse. This crack challenges climbers to read its angles carefully, applying jams and hand stacks on textured rock that maintains solid friction throughout. The final anchor is perched on a last ledge, offering an assured belay point framed by broad views of Quebec’s wild landscape. Protection is straightforward, with five well-spaced bolts and an anchor equipped with spits, supporting a confident lead or top-rope ascent. This route's single pitch covers approximately 50 feet of pure granite, making it a perfect objective for those seeking a quick hit of traditional sport climbing in the Charlevoix region. Whether you're dialing in crack technique or savoring accessible exposure without extended approach times, 5.9 Sans Nom 2 stands out as a practical and rewarding choice steeped in the authentic north-eastern climbing ethos.
While well protected by bolts, the flaring crack demands precise footwork and hand placements. Wet or damp rock can make jams unreliable; always inspect placements carefully and avoid climbing after rainfall. The ledges offer good stances but watch for loose debris especially near the anchors.
Start early to avoid lingering afternoon sun on the wall.
Footwear with sticky rubber boosts confidence on the crack’s subtle edges.
Check weather forecasts carefully—wet conditions make the crack slick and dangerous.
Approach trail is well-marked but steep in parts; sturdy hiking shoes are recommended.
Bring a standard sport rack supplemented with a set of small to medium cams or nuts to protect the flaring crack sections. The route features five fixed bolts plus an anchor with spits, allowing confident clipping and belaying setups.
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